Overview: The Camino Inglés
Sometimes called in Spanish the Antiguo Camino Real, a term which still appears occasionally, the Camino inglés provided a short, direct route from Ferrol or A Coruña to Santiago and was therefore used by pilgrims of various nationalities from northern Europe, who had travelled to Galicia by sea.
The tomb of Sir John Moore at la Coruña
The Route. The modern pilgrim can start either from opposite the old landing-steps at Ferrol (just below the parador) or from the the church of Santiago in A Coruña.
Length. From Ferrol it is 110 km to Santiago, and from A Coruña about 75 (too short to earn the compostela). These two possible starting points mean that the route is Y-shaped, the two tracks meeting near the atmospheric village of Hospital de Bruma. The Ferrol route can be walked in five days, and the A Coruña one in three.
Waymarking. The route is very well waymarked with a mixture of yellow arrows, shell tiles and marker stones.
Terrain. This is Galicia and the countryside is reminiscent of Brittany, Cornwall and other Celtic regions. There are some inclines which are well compensated by beautiful views. There is some road walking on quiet country lanes and roads.
Weather. The climate of Galicia can be the same as Scotland or Ireland in winter. In summer it can be hot and very sunny. In recent years the Spanish weather, as with many other places, has been unpredictable. Pilgrims are advised to check the weather forecast before finally deciding on the kit to take.
When to go. Walkable throughout the year, although winter (late November to late February) is not really recommended.
Getting there.
By Train: FEVE trains run from Oviedo to Ferrol, via Pravia, Ribadeo and Ortigueira: see www.feve.es
By Air: To A Coruña with Veuling – www.veuling.com or with Iberia www.iberia.com
Or with Ryanair – www.ryanair.com to Santiago de Compostela
There are regular buses between A Coruña and Ferrol and between Santiago and A Coruña and Ferrol.
What to see. The A Coruña arm: in the city, the Tower of Hercules (Roman lighthouse), churches, especially that of Santiago, and museums. Culleredo: Romanesque church of Santiago de Burgo. Hospital de Bruma: medieval chapel of San Lourenzo, remains of medieval hospital next door. Ferrol arm: Xubia: 12thc the monastery church. Neda: 14th c church of San Nicolis and fine calvary (cruceiro). Pontedeume: bridge, church of Santiago, Andrade tower, 12th c church of San Miguel de Breamo (a detour). Betanzos: churches of Santiago, Santa Maria, San Francisco.
Where to stay. Variety of cheap and medium-priced hotel accommodation in A Corurña, Ferrol, Pontedeume, Betanzos, Meson do Vento (near Bruma) Ordenes and Sigueiro. Three albergues at Neda, Miño and Bruma. On the Coruña arm and south of Mesón do Vento hotels can be found on the N550 road to Santiago, which runs parallel to the camino.
Distinctive features of the route. More suitable for walkers than cyclists. Not crowded and not too expensive. In rural Galicia local people often speak Galician rather than (Castilian) Spanish. Easy to reach: ferries to Santander (from Plymouth) or Bilbao (from Portsmouth), and FEVE (interesting narrow-gauge railway along northern Spanish coast) or by air and bus to A Coruña and Ferrol. Long days can be avoided by 'shuttling' in taxi/bus from the day's end-point and then back to the start point next morning. Details are in the guide.
Guide books.
- The Camino Inglés (Pilgrim Guides to Spain # 7), compiled by John Walker, January 2011. Now available on-line.
- The Xunta de Galicia has published a booklet on the Camino inglés (in Spanish) while the Asociación Galega de Amigos do Camiño de Santiago has produced a useful guide-cum-credencial which pilgrims can have stamped along the way. See http://www.xacobeo.es/2006/adjuntos/descargas/25_The_English_Way.pdf or ask at Tourist Information Office or Town Halls (Ayuntamientos)
Pictures. For pictures of the Camino Inglés, visit the Pictures Pages of the Camino .
Discussion Forum. Visit the Camino de Santiago Forum to join in the current conversation.
Language. While it is not impossible to take this route without any command of Spanish prospective pilgrims are strongly urged to learn as much as possible before they set out. We recommend the BBC's Get By In Spanish - a small slim book in 5 chapters, with a single cassette, or Talk Spanish, an expanded version of the above, with 2 cassettes or 2 CDs.
See also. John Walker’s website which has further descriptions of the route including a slide show: johnniewalker-santiago.blogspot.com Piers Nicholson has also created a picture gallery of views of the Camino Inglés.
Thanks to Johnnie Walker, August 2011