CSJ Guide to the Camino Portugués, 2009: update 2011
Caminho Português Section 1 – Lisbon to Porto
Although I have gathered and compiled these updates, the credit belongs to those who have walked the Caminho from Lisbon and who have sent me their comments and suggestions. These online guides are a collaborative project, crucially dependent on the generosity of the users, without whom updates would be impossible. Many thanks to the pilgrims who have helped me with these revisions, most particularly Kevin Hall (summer 2011), Helena Bernardo and the entire Via Lusitana, a Portuguese Caminho group dedicated to promoting the Caminho Português.
Bom caminho, and I welcome your comments and updates.
Laurie Reynolds – September 2011
Major Developments along the Caminho Português from Lisbon to Porto
A major development over the past two years has been the creation of the extremely active and dedicated Friends of the Camino group located in Lisbon. This group, the Via Lusitana, celebrated their one year anniversary in May of 2011. Its members have done a tremendous job of promoting the Caminho and encouraging municipalities along the way to support it. Their website, www.vialusitana.org, although in Portuguese, has much helpful information. In addition, their SOS Peregrino phone number should be noted by all peregrinos on the Caminho Português: 915 595 213 . You can call this number any day, any time, and you can receive assistance in English, German, French, or Spanish.
The second major development is that there are now three pilgrim-specific private accommodations south of Porto on the Caminho. One, the Casa de São Caetano, is located about 3 kms north of Golegã, before the Quinta da Cardiga. The second is a private albergue in Sernadelo, a short distance to the north of Mealhada. And third, the Colégio da Imaculada Conceição, is a Jesuit institution in Cernache that has opened its doors to pilgrims. Specific page references and more information appears later in this update.
And finally, pilgrims should know that the Bombeiros Voluntarios (Voluntary Firefighters) in Agueda are no longer taking in pilgrims. Substitute pilgrim accommodation has been arranged, and details are provided later in this update.
As noted throughout the guide, much of the Caminho south of Porto is on asphalt. The vast majority of this is on very uncrowded rural roads, but it is asphalt nonetheless. The Via Lusitana is working very diligently with municipal governments along the route to find off-road alternatives where possible. They have had some major successes recently, and details will be posted here as soon as they are official.
In January 2012 the Xunta de Galicia opened a new hostel in Pontecesures with 52 beds. The AACS (Asociacion Amigos del Camino de Santiago) has also opened a medieval restaurant, ONLY for pilgrims (called Mesa de Pedra) in Pontecesures, just 100 metres before the Albergue de Pontecesures. Payment in the restaurant is by donation. The restaurant is unique in the world. Applications are accepted from those wishing to act as hospitaleros.
There is more information available on the restaurant's website.
Updates to the Guide with page references to the A5 booklet pagination
p.9 -- second paragraph towards the bottom. After "entering the Parque das Nações," add: Construction in the area may necessitate a slight detour; if so, go on Rua Gaviotas em Terra, and then L onto Rua Fernando Pessoa.
p.15 -- Via Lusitana has removed the concrete Fátima/Caminho marker that had arrows crossed out and arrows pointing in many directions. Stay on the paved road all the way into Reguengo, as described on this page.
p.16 -- Lodging in Santarém: Pensão Muralha is closed.
p. 19 -- Golegã. One pilgrim reports that a bar in town has a room with 5 beds on the second floor, which the owner rents to pilgrims for 15€ a bed.
p. 21 -- Quinta Cardiga. About three kms after Golegã (and before arriving at the Quinta da Cardiga), in the hamlet of São Caetano there is a private pilgrim albergue. The albergue is the only big house in the hamlet, and it is in front of the primary school. It is directly on the Caminho. 9 beds; B&B - 15 €; menú peregrino – 8 €. Individual private rooms are also available. Contact is Alexandre Hachmeister (English-speaking). Phone: (351) 917 063 823. Email alexandre.hachmeister@element.pt. The stage from Santarém to Golegã is approximately 35 kms.
p.22 -- In October, 2010, the Via Lusitana marked the eucalyptus forest between Atalaia and Grou. Hopefully, you will not have any problems. In a pinch, though, you can always follow my instructions from the large electricity power pylon, down the very steep slope. Updates most welcome.
p.26 -- The Caminho does not actually pass though Venda dos Tremoucos. It goes along the hill, parallel to the main road between Tomar and Alvaiazere, but you do turn L off a paved road onto a path that is next to the utility building. The path takes you to another eucalyptus forest, where Via Lusitana has placed new markings and arrows. Please let us know how you get on in the eucalyptus forests!
p.31 -- In Cernache, the Jesuit institution, the Colégio da Imaculada Conçeicão, now takes pilgrims in for overnight accommodation.
p.34 -- Leaving Mealhada, change third sentence to read: "When you are on the Rúa 25 de abril and come to a bright yellow house ON TH L, with an old grape press in its walled yard, AND A PINK HOUSE ON THE R, keep an eye out for a not-so-obvious arrow on the R."
p.34 -- New albergue outside Mealhada, in Sernadelo. The albergue is on the highway N1/IC2 and 50 metres off the Caminho. Contacts: D.Isabel and Nuno Canilho, phone 916 191 721. 12 places; 12.50€ per person.
p.36 – The Bombeiros Voluntarios in Agueda are no longer taking in pilgrims. To arrange pilgrim accommodations, call Ms. Ondina David at the Câmara Municipal (city hall). Tel: 234 610 070. The city hall is located in the Praça Municipal, and office hours are M-F, from 9:30 – 13:00 and 14:30 to 18:00. The Via Lusitana has informed us that this alternative space is a local artists’ association with room for approximately 20 pilgrims.
p.38 -- Where the guide says "Shortly after (the religious retreat center on your right), another turn-off takes you back into eucalyptus forest." I have been told that 700-800 metres is a better gauge of the distance than "shortly after". But it is well marked.
Section 2 – Oporto – Santiago
page 15 - 3rd para - "follow the yellow arrows KSO right.." add 2nd Right. Further on "Turn right." add “at T intersection”.
page 20 - 1st para - "soon after the church turn left" I would suggest "veer right" instead of turn left.
page 22 - 1st para - "in approximately 1km" this was <200 mts. 2nd para "...and go up the side of it" add after <800 metres rejoin road R for 100 metres, then R down paved road then after 150 metres L at cobblestoned lane. After 1km L onto paved road.
page 24 - "go past the parador" I found this a pointless detour which takes you back to the road.
page 29 last para "go through a tunnel." It needs to be stressed that you MUST stay on the R side. This turn is easy to miss otherwise.
page 33 - 1st para - "until you reach the N550" add over railway turn sharp L 1 kilometre before rejoing N550. 2nd last para "Follow the road round to the left" delete "to the left" add arrow does go L the 10 mts later R then goes back to X road.