The Arles Route: an alternative to the le Puy route
The Arles route offers an attractive, interesting, under-used, and perfectly feasible alternative to the le Puy route, though the going can be quite tough in places - what we say elsewhere on this site about getting fit before you set off is particularly important for this route. If - despite its many historical attractions - the thought of the crowds and the competition on the le Puy route put you off, do consider taking the Arles route, even for your first pilgrimage.
Setting out from Arles, the first few days are spent crossing a corner of the Camargue on the old Roman road, the Via Domitia; after Montpellier you start to climb into the rugged hills of the Haut Languedoc, before dropping to Castres, and then entering - along the serene towpath of the Canal du Midi - the historic city of Toulouse. Thereafter the route crosses a number of spurs of the Pyrenees, before turning south at Lescar, near Pau, to climb the Vallée d'Aspe and cross the mountains by the Col du Somport. Turning west again at Jaca, the route crosses the completely different landscape of Aragon and Navarra before joining the Camino Francés at Puente la Reina.
We are grateful to our colleagues of the Association Chemin d'Arles (who have also created a photogaphic gallery of the Arles route - well worth a visit!), for allowing us to include some of their photographs on this page.
Do also visit our own gallery of pilgrims' pictures for more pictures of the Arles route, and our Overview page for a more detailed description.
As on the Via de la Plata, you find yourself back in the Roman world - the world James himself would have known ...
The Roman Amphitheatre at Arles |
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The Via Domitia remained in use as the principal highway across southern France until the 12th century. At the Roman site of Ambrusson the path follows the original paving for a considerable distance.
All that remains of the magnificent bridge at Ambrusson |
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The Camargue, famous for white horses and black bulls
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Guilhem, cousin and companion-in-arms of Charlemagne, turned to the monastic life and founded this Abbey, now named for him, in 804. It is sited at the head of the Herault river gorge, in a spectacular cirque of cliffs - up which the footpath winds St Guilhem-le-Désert |
After 4 days crossing the flatlands of the Rhone delta, the path climbs into the rugged hills of the Haut Languedoc
The wild landscape above St Guilhem |
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Brick Romanesque in Toulouse: very unusual, but very striking when you come across it
The church of St Sernin, in Toulouse |
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The tympanum of the church at Morlaas - though a relatively recent restoration - is remiscent of the Potico de la Gloria.
Morlaas, the tympanum
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Mixed masonry in the cathedral at Lescar glows in the evening sun.
The cathedral, Lescar |
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The path turns south near Pau, to pass Oloron Ste Marie and enter the Vallée d'Aspe
Riverside houses on the Gave d'Aspe at Oloron-Ste-Marie
Photographer: Peter Silberbach [D] |
The Vallée d'Aspe is a long straight cleft running due south into the mountains, with a gentle gradient - a disused railway line runs most of the way up. Only the last 5-6 km to the Col de Somport (1,600m) are steep, and the views of the mountains are spectacular.
Approaching the Somport Pass
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A little off the route (known from the Col onwards in Spain as the Camino Aragonés), but well worth the detour!
The monastery of San Juan de la Pena Photographer: Peter Silberbach [D] |
The landscape changes completely after the Pyrenees. The path follows the valley of the Rio Aragón, via the vast Embalse de Yesa, as far as Sangüesa.
The valley of the Rio Aragón at sunset |
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Xavier Castle was the birthplace of St Francis Xavier, missionary to Japan. Restored in the 19th century, it is now his shrine as well.
Xavier Castle |
Sangüesa is the last major town before the Arles Route joins the Camino Francés: it has many interesting monuments, including a Franciscan house thought to descend from one founded by Francis himself, after his pilgrimage to Santiago
Curious figures in the porch of Sta María, Sangüesa |
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A few basic facts: the route is 903km/564 miles long, and it can be walked in about 5 weeks. The waymarking is generally good, though the CSJ Guide (now in two parts, Arles to Toulouse and Toulouse to Puente la Reina, and available through the Bookshop) is an indispensable aid to route-finding. There are plenty of gîtes d'étape, small hotels and Chambres'd'Hôte, and although the average stages are a little longer than on the le Puy route, you will find somewhere to sleep every night.
Consider it seriously - discover it early!
You'll find more details about the Arles route , including a list of available guidebooks,on our Overview page.