Los Caminos del Norte: several alternatives to the Camino Francés
The Camino del Norte is not a single route, but a spine from which a number of alternative routes to Santiago branch off. The spine begins at Irún on the French border, and the route via the San Adrián Tunnel to Santo Domingo de la Calzada branches off immediately. At Villaviciosa, you have the option of continuing along the coast, or turning south to visit Oviedo - where again, you have the choice of following the Camino Primitivo, via Lugo, to Melide, or of returning to the coast at Avilés. The coastal route itself runs as far as Ribadeo, where it finally turns south, via Sobrado de los Monches, to meet the Camino Francés at Arzua.
The route is quite different from the Camino Francés, but it does offer an entirely feasible alternative, if you want to avoid the crowds. The coast is rugged and broken: the many estuaries - often with little fishing ports - are divided by steep headlands, which the path winds up and down. Spectacular sea-scapes open up; you pass through the historic capital of the Basque people, Gernika; you get the chance to visit Bilbao's famous Guggenheim Museum; and long-awaited facsimile of the painted cave at Altamira is finally open.
If - despite its many historical attractions - the thought of the crowds and the competition for beds on the Camino Francés put you off, do consider following the coast, even for your first pilgrimage.
Do also visit our own gallery of pilgrims' pictures for more pictures of the Camino del Norte, and our Overview page for a more detailed description.
The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, an astonishing building, is almost worth a pilgrimage in itself.
The Guggenheim at Bilbao |
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Throughout its length, the route offers beautiful seascapes
From Onton, looking east along the coast |
Castro Urdiales has been a port since Roman times.
The Church, lighthouse (in an old Templar fort) and the fishing port at Castro Urdiales |
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The old pilgrims would certainly have taken ferries when they could to cross the many estuaries. The modern pilgrim can follow them by taking this little ferry from Somo across to Santander.
The Somo-Santander ferry at the quayside in Santander |
The long-awaiting facsimile of the neolithic painted cave at Altamira - second only, some say, to Lascaux - is finally open, and only a short detour from the path, near Santillana del Mar.
A bison painted some 17,000 years ago on the cave wall at Altamira |
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Spectacular views of the Picos de Europa ... when the weather is clear!
The church and the fort overlooking San Vicente de la Barquera, with the Picos de Europa in the background. |
You can either continue along the coast, or turn inland at Villaviciosa to go via Oviedo - which was probably the choice of many earlier pilgrims, since "Quien
va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor" (“Whoever goes to Saint James and not to the Saviour, visits the servant
and misses the Master”). In addition to the Camara Santa and the figure of el Salvador, both in Oviedo Cathedral, there are about a dozen pre-Romanesque churches in Asturias, two of which are on the outskirts of Oviedo itself. They are very rare survivals from before the wave of Romaenesque church building, and not to be missed!
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Santa Maria de Naranca (left) and San Miguel de Lillo (right), two pre-Romanesque churches on the outskirts of Oviedo
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The coast remains rugged throughout its length
FEVE, the narrow-guage railway which runs from Bilbao to Ferrol, spans a ravine. |
Most of the estuaries end with attractive little fishing ports
The harbour, Luarca |
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A last sight of the sea before turning south for Santiago
Ribadeo at dawn |
Pilgrim-suitable accommodation is developing as the demand grows. At Miraz, near Lugo, the CSJ - as part of a deliberate attempt to encourage pilgrims to explore alternatives to the more popular routes - is filling a gap in what would otherwise be a long stage.
The Confraternity's new refuge at Miraz |
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The Cistercian monks at Sobrado have been welcoming pilgrims for centuries
The monastery church, Sobrado de los Monches
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A few basic facts: the route is 825km/515 miles long, and it can be walked in 4-5 weeks. The waymarking is generally good, though the CSJ Guide (available through the Bookshop) is an indispensable aid to route-finding. There is adequate accommodation , and although the average stages are a little longer than on the Camino Francés, you will find somewhere to sleep every night.
Consider it seriously - discover it early!
You'll find more details about the Camino del Norte, including a list of available guidebooks,on our Overview page.