Overview: The Camino Portugués

This route, which heads north following the Atlantic coast of Portugal and Spain, was used by Queen Isabel of Portugal (1271 - 1336) to make at least one pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.  Queen Isabel was canonized in 1626 and this is celebrated on her feast day, the 8th of July.

The Route. Starts at Porto in north-west Portugal and continues northwards crossing the rivers Lima and Minho where it enters Spain.  Still heading north, the river Ulla is crossed at Padron before arriving at Santiago.  The total distance of (about) 232k can be divided into 117k for the Portuguese section and 112k from Tui to Santiago, with 3k for the transfer from Valenca across the border at the Rio Minho to Tui.  Note: these are composite values based on five sources.

Length and Suggested Stages.

Porto - Vilarinho 26k From the cathedral an initial 9k along city streets to a junction at Araujo where the camino turns right along a secondary but busy road to Vilar Do Pinheiro and Vilarinho.

Vilarinho – Barcelos 26k Pleasant rural settlements and wooded areas, passing through Rates to descend to the R.Cavado and reach the market town of Barcelos.

Barcelos - Ponte De Lima 31k Along rural and secondary roads with some forested areas.  From Tamel [ 9k railway station] to Balugaes [13k] often wet in places and care needed to follow waymarks.  After Vitorino De Piaes and Portela a long descent to the valley of the R.Lima and on to Ponte De Lima.

Ponte De Lima - Rubiaes 17k At times a damp track which follows streams and climbs through the forest to Portela Grande at 433m before descending to Rubiaes.

Rubiaes - Valenca 17k Cross the R. Coura to the pass at S. Bento Da Porta Aberta and descend to the valley of the Minho.  Cobbled lanes give way to roads leading into Valenca.

Valenca - Tui 3k Walk down to the R.Minho and cross by Eiffel's Puente Internacional. Continue following the yellow arrows along urban 'lanes' to the cathedral.

Tui - Porrino 15k From the cathedral the camino descends to the valley of the R. Louro which is followed to Porrino; sometimes in damp stretches and eventually for 7k alongside a vast industrial estate and the outskirts of Porrino.

Porrino - Redondela 14k For 3k the route follows the N550 and then, at Mos, takes minor roads and a few tracks through well wooded countryside until the descent into Redondela by the Ria De Vigo.

Redondela - Arcade (Pontesampaio) 9k By minor roads, keeping to the west of the N550 to enter a forested section which joins the N550 at the entrance to Arcade. 1k to the bridge at Pontesampaio.

Arcade - Pontevedra 10k Through the backstreets of Pontesampaio to enter and follow a sunken lane which climbs to a wooded and agricultural area.  A long road section of 4k leads to the outskirts of Pontevedra.

Pontevedra - Caldas De Reis 23k Through the city of Pontevedra,crossing the 'old' Burgo bridge to continue through a long well wooded valley bordered by the railway.  After 6k the camino enters an area of mixed farmland and small plots and follows a cross country route parallel with the N550 until the immediate outskirts of Caldas De Reis.

Caldas De Reis - Padron l9k A rural and well wooded section until Pontesecures is reached.  Cross the R.Ulla and enter Padron.

Padron - Santiago de Compostela 20k After 2k of main road the camino follows minor roads through hamlets and fields generally between the railway and the A9.  At 9k cross the A9 and continue along minor roads through the 'new' town of Milladoiro.  On the summit of the next hill the spires of the cathedral can be seen.  Just after crossing the railway track and the R.Sar, the outskirts of Santiago are reached and yellow arrows lead to the cathedral.

Waymarking. As of late October 2004, yellow arrows are fresh and plentiful from the Cathedral at Porto to the Portuguese border, thanks to the efforts of the Associacão dos Amigos do Caminho Portugues de Santiago.  Sometimes these marks are accompanied by blue amms pointing towards Porto, indicating the route from Santiago to Porto and thence Fatima.  Around Barcelos and to the north of Tui, red and white marks of the GR11-E9 impact on the camino. The familiar yellow arrows showing the route through Galicia are supplemented with granite pillars giving the distance to Santiago.

Terrain. The camino heads north from Porto following the Atlantic coastal ship and, as several rias are crossed, presents an interesting if undulating journey.  Country districts comprise of mixed farms and smallholdings interspersed with pine and eucalyptus forests.  As the camino follows the obvious transport corridor connecting Porto - Valenca - Tui - Pontevedra - Santiago - Lugo -A Coruña, it inevitably makes contact with national roads.  The current route has been realigned to minimise contact with major roads but often joins these roads at the entrance and exit of cities and towns.

Weather and when to go. Northern Portugal and Galicia are bordered by the Atlantic Ocean resulting in a changeable maritime climate.  Westerly winds ensure a generous rainfall, hence the references to 'Green Portugal and Green Spain'.  During periods of low pressure, rainfall can be heavy and prolonged and walkers should be adequately prepared.  Spring is a rewarding time to experience cool weather and fresh growth, whilst early auturm is regarded as being fairly dry and settled.  Summer can be hot with periods of high humidity and facilities are usually crowded during the peak holiday months.

Accommodation  Dedicated pilgrim refuges in Rates, Rubiães and Valença do Minho in Portugal, Tui, Porriño, Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra and Padrón on the Spanish side.  Hotels, residenciais/hostales and pensões/fondas in Porto and all places of any size along the way.

Information about the albergues in Portugal can be found on www.alberguerates.com.sapo.pt

What to see. Cathedrals at Porto, Tui and Santiago.  Important churches at Rates, Ponte de Lima, Redondela, Pontevedra, and Padron.  Numerous wayside crosses dedicated to St James and the granite cross at Barcelos recording the miracle of the hanged pilgrim.  The Roman mooring stone in Padron church with connections to St James. Caldas de Reis, near the church of St Thomas Becket in the main square, free thermal footbath for pilgrims.

Distinctive features. The Camino Portugués is now defined and well marked; generally following secondary and minor roads with relaxing sections along farm tracks and through forests.  Major roadworks are still encountered and these are usually marked showing the required diversion.  When using roads be aware of traffic and use the indicated strip between the road and the (usual) drainage ditch. This coastal area is a popular holiday area and can become crowded in summer with associated pressure on services and accommodation.

Cyclists. Possible with detours around the forested areas.  No dedicated cyclist's maps are currently available.  However, I have met cyclists along the camino and have been told that it is a straightforward journey.  More information would be appreciated.

Guide books:


Thanks to Rod Pascoe, February 2005

New Guide:the new Galician Amigos guide to the complete route Lisbon-Santiago (Castilian or Portuguese) is now on their website as a PDF file
http://www.amigosdelcamino.com/web/caminos/presen.php?idi=C&fot=camino&cod=2 . (Thanks to Peter Robins, July 2007.)
 

Latest news. "CAMIÑO PORTUGUÉS: NUEVO ALBERGUE EN BARCELOS Tercer albergue en Portugal Una buena noticia. A los albergues de peregrinos de San Teotonio (Valença) y San Pedro de Rates, sigue ahora este nuevo albergue de Barcelos.  Pertenece a la Orden Hospitalaria de San Juan de Dios. Se exige la credencial del peregrino y está en la Casa de Saúde S. Joao de Deus, Av Paul Felisterto s/n Barcelos. Su teléfono es 253808210 (debéis anteponer el prefijo de Portugal)." (July 2005).

Addendum: Lisbon-Porto
John Brierley, the author of the guide to the Camino Portugués from Porto to Santiago (Camino Guides:Findhorn Press, 2005) is currently studying the Lisbon-Porto section of this route.  He points out that, although this route is now well-waymarked, it lacks pilgrim infrastructure so that at present it should only be undertaken by experienced walkers with good physical fitness and a reasonable grasp of the Portuguese language.  However, if you fulfil these criteria and are interested in walking the route, John has prepared two basic information sheets with coloured maps, which are available in .pdf format direct from www.caminoguides.com  (click on updates).

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