Overview: The Primitive Route - El Camino Primitivo or La Ruta del Interior 

Many pilgrims left the Camino francés at León and travelled north to visit the Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber) in Oviedo Cathedral.  Extra indulgences were thus gained.  Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor (“Whoever goes to Saint James and not to the Saviour, visits the servant and misses the  Master.”)  The primitive route was the shortest viable route to regain the Camino Francés to Santiago.

San Miguel de Lillo

The tiny pre-Romanesque church of San Miguel de Lillo on the outskirts of Oviedo

The Route. Takes the most direct line that there is from Oviedo to Lugo; from Lugo there are one or two possible alternatives.  There is a fair percentage of road walking although probably no more than on the Camino francés.  From Oviedo the route passes through: Grado, Salas, Tineo, Pola de Allande, Grandas de Salime, Fonsagrada, Cadavo and Castroverde.  As in most of northern Spain there is a great deal of new road building that impinges on the camino at different points; it is therefore difficult to make sure that the Confraternity guides always reflect this accurately.

A suitable point for leaving the coastal route and going to Oviedo is Villaviciosa.  This gives the opportunity to visit the monastery at Valdediós and make use of the Albergue de Peregrinos at La Vega de Sariego.

Distances. Villaviciosa to Oviedo 46 km, Oviedo to Lugo and the Camino francés 285 km approx.

Terrain. It is a hard route through the mountains with a great deal of climbing and descending.  There are some fantastic views if the weather is kind.

Waymarking.  As in many of the alternative routes the waymarking is variable, being dependent upon the efforts of a few members of the local Amigos groups in this sparsely populated area.  Yellow arrows and paint splashes are the norm, unfortunately many painted on trees were lost when the trees were felled.  Hopefully this will gradually improve.

Weather/When to go. The weather can be harsh, even in summer, damp and cold.  As in all mountainous regions it can change very quickly. You can have many superb days of sunshine with magnificent views, you can also be shrouded in damp mist for the whole day and become wet through and miserable.  You should really have had some other hill walking experience before going this way. It would be wisest to restrict yourself to the summer months if you are contemplating taking this route.

Accommodation.  There are Albergues de Peregrinos at: Sebrayo (before Villaviciosa), Valdediós, La Vega de Sariego, Oviedo, Escamplero, Villapañada (nr Grado), Cornellana, Salas, Tineo, Borres, La Mesa, Grandas de Salime, Cadavo/Baleira, and Lugo.  Details of these are in. the CSJ Guide.  In addition to the Albergues there are some hostals and pensiones.  There is accommodation at one or two points once Galicia is reached but it must be remembered that the towns and villages are quite small and it is well worth phoning ahead to book accommodation wherever possible.

What to see. Oviedo: Cathedral, Cámara Santa, the three pre-Romanesque churches on the outskirts (San Julián de los Prados, Santa Maria del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo).  The ruined monasteries at Cornellana and Obona, old pilgrim hospital and the dolmen at Montouto.  Mountain scenery which is quite dramatic at times, especially near Grandas de Salime.

Guide books.

Pictures. For pictures of the Camino Primitivo, visit the Pictures Pages of the Camino.

Discussion Forum. Visit the Camino de Santiago Forum to join in the current conversation.

Cyclists. Perfectly feasible for normal touring cycle, the road surfaces are generally good and although many of the roads are narrow the traffic in most places is quite light.  Some of the off-road sections can be taken by mountain bikes although. restraint should. be exercised to avoid damaging the tracks and causing annoyance to pilgrims travelling on foot.

What’s it like? Although it is a hard route there are sufficient compensations in the scenery and the experience of travelling through relatively remote areas to make it worthwhile.

Spanish. There is no doubt that a reasonable grasp of the language essentials will enhance the experience.  However, I found on my first journey, before I had much Spanish, that people were interested enough in what I was doing to be able to overcome any difficulties and be very helpful.  There is a greater awareness of pilgrimage and the camino on this route than there is on the coastal route. We recommend the BBC's Get By In Spanish - a small slim book in 5 chapters, with a single cassette, or Talk Spanish, an expanded version of the above, with 2 cassettes or 2 CDs.
 

Website.  www.gawthorpe40.freeserve.co.uk This is Eric Walker's own site, which includes more detailed information about all section sof the Caminos del Norte, plus maps.

Thanks to Eric Walker, October 2004

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