Overview: The Coastal Route - Ruta de la Costa or Los Caminos del Norte
The route used by Christian pilgrims when Moslem domination had extended northwards and was making travel along the Camino francés difficult and dangerous. Sections of it were also used by those who arrived by sea at one of the northern Spanish ports. Much of the route follows the line of the old Roman road, the Via Agrippa.
We are encouraging people to try alternatives, even for a first pilgrimage, to the increasingly over-crowded Camino Francés. For an account of the highlights of the coastal route, click here.
Castro Urdiales: the harbour with the church and the lighthouse (in a former Templar castle) in the background
The Route. After crossing the border from France, at Irún, the coastal plain is followed, usually as far as Galicia before turning inland towards Santiago. The main towns on the route are San Sebastián/Donastia, Bilbao, Castro Urdiales, Santander, Ribadesella, Gijón, Avilés, Luarca, Ribadeo, Mondoñedo, and Sobrado dos Monxes, joining the Camino francés at Arzua. Total distance from Irún to Santiago de Compostela 825 km (depending on route chosen).
Some pilgrims leave the coastal route at Villaviciosa to visit the largest Asturian monastery, and church of San Salvador (El Conventín), at Valdediós. They then continue to Oviedo where they join the Camino primitivo to Lugo.
Terrain. Being parallel to the sea means that there are numerous rivers to be crossed with the attendant descents and ascents that this implies. It is not easy. Great views in places but you are often not within sight of the sea for many kilometres. A similar amount of road walking to the Camino francés. Some good walking sections that makes the journey worthwhile. Very peaceful in Galicia.
Wayarking. Very patchy in places, normally it is the usual yellow arrow and is often shared with the red & white bars of a GR Route (Sendero de Gran Recorrido). Some areas very good and include the ceramic EEC type scallop shell on a small concrete post (monolito).
Weather/When to go. The weather can be very changeable, ranging from a very good English summer to a very damp and cold English autumn. Along the coast it is very unusual to find the very hot dry conditions that are encountered on the meseta. Can be quite wet. From the point of view of the weather, any time from late May to early October is possible.
Accommodation. Coverage of the route with dedicated pilgrim accommodation is very patchy. In the Basque country there are no albergues or refugios and only three Youth Hostels [Correction offered by a pilgrim in June 2008:"This is no longer true. There is an albergue at Irun (municipal), one at Deba (municipal), two private ones (Orio, Zumaia), a private one close to Zumaia (they will pick you up), a municipal one at Gernika and Lezama, two (one private) at Bilbao, and one at Portugalete. Not all are open all year, but many are."] The further along the coast you go the better is the provision for pilgrims. The north coast is the area of choice for many Spanish holidaymakers. In the height of the (short) summer season accommodation can be at a premium near some of the more popular places and you must be prepared to be adaptable: mat and sleeping bag essential. There are numerous campsites, many in Asturias with tent hire for pilgrims. Often, bus or train can be taken to an accommodation site as a possible last resort.
What to see. Some superb ecclesiastical architecture at numerous places; also some beautiful old bridges and other buildings. Many exciting old town centres, often in some of the most unlikely places e.g. Bilbao, Hondarribia, Avilés. A diversion into Oviedo is worth making, (good bus and train services from both Gijón and Avilés). Some superb coastal and mountain range views.
Guide books.
- Los Caminos del Norte (Pilgrim Guides to Spain # 4) Confraternity of Saint James. Detailed route description and accommodation where known. £5.00 each. Available in our Bookshop by following links from individual titles below. In the following parts:
Introduction (2004)
A: Ruta de la Costa, 1: Irún to Villaviciosa (2007). Update.
A: Ruta de la Costa, 2: Villaviciosa-Gijón-Arzúa (2007). Update.
B: The Tunnel Route (2002). Update
F: The Camino Primitivo (2006/7). Update.
Full details of all these on the author's website.
- El Camino de Santiago del Norte, by Paco Nadel and Fundación Caixagalicia. El Pais/Aguilar. ISBN: 84-03-50228-1. €19.90. The guide covers the route as far as Villaviciosa and then turns inland to the Camino primitivo. One of the few guides that crosses provincial boundaries. Can be bought at www.cervantes.com
- Dos Caminos a Santiago, A lavishly produced reprint in A4 format
of the old spiral-bound guide. All the inaccuracies in the maps
are still there but excellent for an overview with some good photographs. Can be obtained free by writing to the Bilbao Tourist Office, Paseo del
Arena, 1 - 48005 Bilbao, Spain.
Pictures. For pictures of the Camino del Norte, visit our digital image gallery and the Pictures Pages of the Camino.
Discussion Forum. Visit the Camino de Santiago Forum to join in the current conversation.
Cyclists. Can be very good for touring cyclists and it is improving. New motorway building means that there are some almost deserted parallel roads with extremely good surfaces. There are a number of interesting off-road possibilities for all-terrain bicycle riders as well.
What’s it like ? Very different from the Camino francés. Some people have hated it, they missed the crowds, others have said that it has been a wonderful experience and they have greatly valued the time and opportunity for contemplation that this route has given them.
Spanish. Without a fair grasp of the language you would be missing a lot but some people with little Spanish have thoroughly enjoyed the coastal route. Be prepared for the increasing use of the Basque form of place names in road and public signs in Guipuzcoa and Viscaya. We recommend the BBC's Get By In Spanish - a small slim book in 5 chapters, with a single cassette, or Talk Spanish, an expanded version of the above, with 2 cassettes or 2 CDs.
Website. With maps and additional material www.gawthorpe40.freeserve.co.uk
Thanks to Eric Walker October 2004