Overview: Santiago to Finisterre/Muxía

Finisterre (Fisterra in Galician) was both the end of the known world until Columbus altered things and the final destination of many of the pilgrims who made the journey to Santiago in past centuries.  There are various explanations as to how this continuation came about (one such is that is was based on a pre-Christian route to the pagan temple of Ara Solis in Finisterre, erected to honour the sun) but is it also known that a pilgrim infrastructure existed, with “hospitals” in Cée, Corcubión, Finisterre itself and elsewhere.  Pilgrims in past centuries also continued northwards up the coast to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Barca in Muxía, 29km north of the “end of the world” itself.

The Route.  Starts from the Cathedral in Santiago and leads in a fairly straight line through the mountains via Negreira, Cée and Corcubión to the port of Finisterre and then on to the lighthouse (89km).  It is possible to walk this in three (long, tiring) days but four are preferred, with an extra day for the (recommended) extension to Muxía. From Finisterre pilgrims can continue directly north to Muxía (29km) or, alternatively, go there directly after leaving Hospital (also 29km) and then walk south to Finisterre.

Waymarking.  Some yellow arrows, as on the Camino francés, but also waymarked throughout with concrete millestones bearing the blue and yellow stylised Council of Europe ceramic star, whose rays normally indicate the direction to be taken.  Many of these also show the distance remaining to the lighthouse in Fnisterre, others to the Santuario (by the edge of the sea) in Muxía.  The waymarks leading the pilgrim from Santiago to Finisterre and from Hospital to Muxía are in one direction only while the route from Finisterre to Muxía (and back) is waymarked in both directions (though without indicating any distances).

Terrain.  Undulating and with many ups and downs.  Much of the route is shady, passing through eucalyptus and other woods.  Many of the paths are old walled lanes and woodland tracks though in the last two of three years many of the older well-used forest paths in the earlier sections of the route have now been tarred.  The continuation to Muxía by either route is (at present) much quieter.

Weather/When to go.  The route is practicable (through not necessarily recommended) thoughout the year.  As it rains a great deal in Galicia no particular season is best in this respect but from May to September pilgrims have the advantage of long hours of daylight.

What to see.  Something of the real Galicia, away from the big towns.  A number of interestng small churches, pazos (large Galician country houses), hórreos (raised granaries), old bridges, cruceiros (wayside crosses), examples of typical vernacular architecture and various pilgrim, St. James and St. Roch references.

Accommodation.  Refugios in Negreira, Olveiroa, Corcubión, and Finisterre itself and Muxía.   Pilgrims can also sleep in the old school in Vilaserio and the sports hall in Cée.  There is hostal accommodation in Negreira, Cée, Corcubión, Finisterre and Muxía.  All of these places except Vilaserio also have regular bus services to Santiago every day.

Distinctive features of the route/General.  Very peaceful route and very different from the  crowded route prior to Santiago.  Only a very small proportion of all those who make the journey to the “City of the Apostle” continue on to the “end of the world” but with recent improvements in the waymarking and the availability of pilgrim accommodation numbers are gradually increasing each year (some 4000 in 2001).

Guide books:


Fisterrana.  A certificate offered to those who have walked the route from Santiago, available from the refuge in Finisterre.  A similar certificate is obtainable (ask in tourist office) for those who walk to Muxía.

Cyclists.  Some of the walkers’ route is suitable for mountain (though very definitely not touring) bikes.

Language.  Pilgrims without a reasonable command of Spanish will find this route more difficult than they probably did the Camino francés. We recommend the BBC's Get By In Spanish - a small slim book in 5 chapters, with a single cassette, or Talk Spanish, an expanded version of the above, with 2 cassettes or 2 CDs.

Thanks to Alison Raju, July 2003