CSJ Pilgrim Guides to Spain #4 F, Los Caminos del Norte:
Camino Primitivo, Villaviciosa - Oviedo - Lugo, 2006/7 ed. - 2009 Update (2nd Edition)

AMENDMENTS
With thanks to:
Alan W.Joyce and information provided by http://www.jacobeo.net ; also to Rob Steele who reported back to us in October 2008;  Laurie Reynolds (November 2008); Adam Judge (January 2009); Marilyn McKellar (February 2009),Kristine Ryan (June 2009), Paul Murray (Aug 2009) and Annette Machon (Oct 2009) .


General note for 2009. The situation with regard to the accuracy of route descriptions given in the guide is that things can change quite quickly, especially with the introduction of new sections of road that seem to appear almost overnight on some occasions. Usually attempts are made by the contractors to indicate alternatives ways round the work but as the signs are by their very nature temporary they are often difficult to find or have become obscured. Be prepared to look very carefully for whatever signs there might be.


Rember also that with vegetation on the paths, brambles, nettles etc. do grow back quite quickly.
NOTE! Remember that in Asturias, when the scallop shell is being used to indicate direction it is the narrower, hinge end of the shell that acts as the pointer. In Galicia the reverse is true.


Page 5.
Line 27. Note! The Albergue at Valdediós Monastery has now closed, the next albergue at La Vega de Sariego is some 18 km from Villaviciosa. Even if you have only just come the 8 km from Sebrayo it may be worth considering staying in Villaviciosa for the night.


Page 6. Castiello
Line 25. Only one bench remains on the grassy area and that is in poor condition. A better reference point is the ruined barn on the right (until it falls down). 
Line 28. Note! The Albergue at the monastery has now closed. The bar nearby cannot be relied upon to be open.


Page 9
Line 34. After"....where the road levels out" insert ", at the roundabout with the strange piece of modern sculpture, take the descending 3rd exit (remember Spanish roundabouts are anti-clockwise)".


Page 12. Oviedo Albergue, Excellent Albergue, Hospitalero speaks fair English and gives good information, €3 per night 


Page 14. Oviedo. Some pilgrims have had difficulty following the route out of the city, here are a few pointers:

Line 12. The instructions for what to do if you become disorientated only apply if you lose your way in the jumble of streets at the very start of the route. If you have managed to reach the Calle de Independencia  continue the way you are going. You would be backtracking if you then diverted to reach the principal railway staion at this point.
Line 16. Here is the schedule for Santa Maria and San Miguel:
The church (San Miguel de Lillo) and the palace (Sta Maria de Naranco), open at 9:30 (summer) or 10 a.m. (winter).  You must take a guided visit, but it was not hurried at all.  The two sites are about a 3 minute walk apart from each other.  The palace is, I believe, the only non-religious pre-romanesque site remaining in Asturias, and maybe in all of Spain.  Both are open on Mondays.  Winter hours (Oct. 1- March 31): Tuesday - Saturday: 10:00 -13:00; 15:00 - 17:00.  Sunday and Monday, 10:00 - 13:00.  Summer hours (April 1 - Sept. 30):  Tuesday - Saturday, 9:30 -13:30; 15:30 - 17:30.  Sunday and Monday, 9:30 -13:30. 
The churches are a leisurely ½ hour – 45 minute walk through nice residential neighborhoods in Oviedo. After a morning visit, continuing on to Escamplero and its albergue makes for a very relaxing 12 km (approx) day. 
Line 32. Main Route. The guide gives no indication of the distance to be travelled down the Calle la Argoños (AS-232) before the La Argoñosa/Lavapiés railway station is reached. The distance is approximately 0.75 km. The street bends to the L past the Calle de Bernardo Casielles and then the staion will be found on the R, opposite the start of the Calle de José María Martinez Cachero.


Page 15. Lampajúa
Stamp 0n wall of chapel for your credencial.


Page 16. La Venta del Escamplero
Pilgrim friendly Bar/Restaurant – Great place for breakfast. 


Page 17. Paladin
Excellent Fuente 20m off route, turn right into village then after 10m right again, fuente under cover and beautiful cold water


Page 17 Grado
Line 32. Insert: "Hotel Palper, San Pelayo 44 (33829). Tel 985 75 00 39. On the main road approaching town nr. FEVE railway station. Restaurant closed Mondays.


Page 18
Line 2. After the first sentence insert: "Ignore the shell marker just before a small park at the entrance to the town. It points to the left towards a bridge over the river but is misleading. Stay straight along the N‑634"


Page 18. Main route out of Grado
New road system as you approach San Juan de Villapanda, follow the small road that you are following round to the right, pass over a feeder road from the N-634 by a new bridge and then turn left, you soon pick up the original route 
Line 10. San Juan de Villapañada
Cyclists should now follow the N-634 through Cabruñana all the way to Cornellana.
Line 16. Road building on the original Camino route to Cornellana has meant a deviation, after El Fresno, that has added approximately 5 km to the route. This can be reduced by 1 km if you continue your journey by the main N-634 after leaving the albergue until Cabruñana is reached and the deviation described in the next paragraph is joined..
Line 18. El Fresno
Old route from here now completely obliterated due to new road building and associated quarrying,
New route is signed back onto N-634 where there is a friendly bar after 1k, at the start of Cabruñana.
You can then, either follow the N-634 through Cabruñana for approximately 3 km where there is a new diversion sign sending you left, or, avoid the heavy traffic and reach the same sign by following the diversion that is indicated to the right at the start of Cabruñana. Road or track the distance is the same.
Whichever  route is taken, when the sign is reached follow the minor road, bear left at junction , through the hamlet of Moratín and pass a large quarry. After the quarry look out for a dog-leg right turn that puts you back on the original route leading down to Las Casas del Puente.


Page 19. Near Las Casas del Puente
Line 15. It is possible to use a service road to the L of the main road. It branches off near the Kiwi Fruit Farm notice board.


Page 19. Cornellana
 Albergue at the Monastery, Approximately 16 places, very spacious, Large Kitchen / dining room, At moment has no permanent hospitalero, a member of the Tineo amigos comes in evening to stamp credential and give information. Albergue Tel. No. 985 83 50 22.
After crossing the bridge (Río Nonoya) into Cornellana it is best to ignore the sign on the left to the monastery as it takes you a long and circuitous route, instead follow the road straight into the town and take the 1st main road on the left, straight over the crossroads and the Río Nonoya, the monastery is now in front of you.


Page 20 Cornellana
Line 3. Due to roadworks it is not possible to turn R along the river (Río Nonoya). Continue forward up the road past the monastery, go through one very sharp, hairpin bend, and then rejoin the Camino where the road bends sharply a second time in Soberriba. It is not clear yet if this will be a permanent alteration to the route.
Advance warning. The final line of the Autovia between Cornellana and Salas is not yet known but alterations may affect the line of the Camino fromm 200 onwards.


Page 21 Casazorrina
Line 4. A new Auotvia is planned that will be parallel to the older Salas bypass. Hopefully a diversion will be signed so that both roads can be crossed with safety, or avoided.
Line 12. Salas
Town albergue is dark, damp and often not too clean. Credencial stamp available upstairs at albergue (Veterans Society).
Good pilgrim friendly bar (great lunch stop) on right hand side just before the archway of the tower.
Recommend going on to Bodenaya if fit enough.


Page 22. Main route from Salas
New Bar where route re-joins N-634 near El Llanon
Then after approximately 1 km, new well signed route following new Motorway service road to Porciles. 


Page 22  Bodenaya.  There is a new albergue run by Alejandro Gonzales (Alex), a former taxi driver in Madrid who gave up the rat race to come live on the Camino.  The albergue is in his private home, communal meals, washing machine, excellent facilities and atmosphere.  Everyone raves about it.  The house is right on the Camino, and his phone number is on the door.  A note says (in Spanish) to call him whenever you arrive if he’s not there and he will be able to come and open up for you.  Open year round.

 
Page 24. Santa Eulalia de Tineo to Tineo
Very muddy route, consider following road in wet times.


Page 24 Tineo
Modern Albergue, Friendly Hospitalero with good info on where to eat. €3.
Line 23. HS* Don Miguel, Viso. Tel 985 90 08 81.
Down hill and round bend from the albergue. Very good restaurant for supper and breakfast.
Casa Cultural in the XIV century gothic palace in the historic center has free internet.  On the second floor. 

 


Page 26. Alto de Piedratecha
Line 2. Bar closed in 2008.
Page.27  Obona monastery is only about 600 m off the Camino.  It is in very bad shape, however, lots of garbage strewn around, no evidence that anyone’s taking care of the place.  Small cloister and locked church.   


Page 28 Campiello
Line 4. Señora. Herminia has now developed a small house near her bar as a private albergue. Very welcoming. (Another comment: Very friendly bar / shop on right, largest coffees on the camino and excellent empanado suitable for takeaway if considering the Hospitales high-level route) 


 Page 29 La Mortera
Pilgrim friendly bar/shop (signed) just off route to the right.
Line 11. I have now met a number of people who have walked this route. This second of these is well known to me, as is the accuracy of his information. He and his friend walked this route in 2008, they both confirm that it is well marked but warnings about weather and visibility should definitely be heeded.
Last water source for route is 500 m beyond village.


 Page.29 – Note on the Hospitales option.  A new albergue in Berducedo (p.34)  makes the Hospitales option a manageable 26 km.  The difference between the two routes (one via Pola de Allande and the other up to Hospitales leaving the main route at La Mortera, and back to the main route at Montefurado) is not that one has more elevation gain, (both routes go up to a mountain pass) but rather that the Hospitales route has no facilities or human habitation anywhere between Borres and Montefurado.  The Hospitales route is now extremely well marked.  The Amigos group in Oviedo has placed wooden posts with yellow arrows at very close intervals throughout the entire route, so getting lost is now not a problem (unless there is snow and the posts might be covered). 


Page 30
Next to bottom line should read "Alto de Palo" not "Pato".


Page 32 "Pola de Allande" not "Allende".
Excellent new albergue, on right hand side as you enter the town, 24 beds, large kitchen/dining room. €3.
New Hotel Iozanoi € 18 pp. Tel. 985 807 102


 Page 33. Penaseita
Albergue reported as closed because of new one at Pola de Allande. Nearby bar still believed to be in operation.


Page 34. Montefurado
Water fountain just beyond church, best ask permission at house..
Line 22. Route to Lago now stays on left-hand side of the road and enters Lago from the bottom of the village, then turn left onto road just before bar / restaurant (Excellent and welcoming) 
Line 33. Berducedo
Bottom line. New albergue in village, 12 beds,  key and sello at Bar Cafetín (very friendly) on main road.
If full New Casa Rural also has 8 beds at € 8 pp for pilgrims as well as more expensive accommodation.


Page 35. La Mesa
Albergue a little rundown but in a beautiful setting, self sello and donativo.


Page 36. Presa del Embalse
Distance from Buspol is 4.3 km not 3.8.


Page 36.  Grandas de Salime.  The albergue is in the former town jail and is very poorly kept.  Two pilgrims reported seeing rats in the albergue in Sept. 2008.  Good reports of Hotel La Barra (upgraded to a ** hotel from the Pension that the guidebook mentions) € 30 for single room.  Bar La Barra opens at 7 a.m. on the dot for breakdast. 


Page 37
Line 16. Main Route. Road works may alter the route at times, if in doubt just follow the road
Line 26. Cereijeira, new bar/shop in village, right-hand side of road.
Line 35. Castro. - signed, about 500 m off the Camino – new private albergue.  Albergue Juvenil, 16 beds in 4 x 4-bed dormitories with made up beds (sheets, pillowcases and blankets) towels provided, €13.  Open all year, phones:  985 92 41 97; mobile (620 77 82 75) Evening menu and breakfast available as well as small bar. Close to the large museum/visitors center for Castro de Chao Samartin, http://www.chaosamartin.es/  , ruins of a prehistoric settlement occupied 800 B.C. to 100 A.D. Ruins were uncovered in the 1990s and the museum opened in 2007. 


Page 38 Alto de Acebo
Bottom of page. Bar very pilgrim friendly, food available.


Page 39. Cabreira to Fonfria
New road building, route diversions but well signed. 


Page.39 
Fountain easily missed. Back in to the L on entering village. No village sign 2009.
Line 22. After Fonfria, at Barbeitos, where the guidebook says “After 1 km the road is reached” there is a new bar/meson, named Cuatro Ventos slightly off to the right-hand side of the road.  Excellent tapas, accommodation and reputedly very good meals.


Page 40. Entering Fonsagrada
As you approach Fonsagrada , approx 1 km before, you can see it high on the hill above you, there is a new signed right turn that takes you off the road and up a steep wide stone track that eventually swings left and drops you into Fonsagrada on a minor road.
Line 21. Padron
Excellent albergue, 4 bedded dormitories, very nice kitchen, comfortable sitting area with TV, food vending and coffee machines, friendly hospitalero. Undercover clothes drying area. €3. Hot water in albergue goes on automatically at 4 p.m. 


Page 41. Paradavella
Now 3 bars in village, new one on the left hand side of the path as you approach village, pilgrim friendly and snacks available. 
Line 18. Do NOT follow the high-level path if the weather has been wet at all. Use the road.
Paradavella to Lastra
Steep long accent into Lastra, locals advise staying on road.


Page 41 Fontaneira
New bar/shop on right hand side of village as you enter.


Page 42. Cadavo
Modern albergue, good facilities including kitchen / dining room €3.
New restaurant on street below albergue with excellent €9 menu, opens at 20.00 (large portions)
If albergue  is full Hotel Moneda is € 36 for a double room. Some pilgrims have slept in verandah of church near albergue. 


Page 43. Castroverde
Albergue reported as closed. 


Page 45. Bascuas
New fuentes both approaching and leaving village.
Cold drinks vending machine in village – €1.5.


Page 46.
Excellent albergue, good facilities €3.


Page 49.Before Bacurin – About 10 km outside of Lugo, as the Camino is going alongside the highway, you will see a turnoff for Santa Eulalia de Boveda, a church where some Roman paintings from the 4th century were discovered in the mid 1900s.  The church is about 2 km off the Camino (total 4 km detour), but I had no problem flagging down a car and getting a ride. Opens at 11 a.m., which fits well with a reasonable 8 am departure from Lugo.  Lots of painted birds, chickens, pheasants, peacocks surrounded by floral designs.  http://santaeulaliaboveda.blogspot.com/  .  More information in the main tourist office in Lugo. 


Page 50 San Román de Retorta
 The Xunta de Galicia have opened a new albergue at San Roman de Retorta in a beautiful woodland setting 1km beyond the village on the “Roman Road Route” between Lugo and Melide. It is 25 km from Lugo and has 12 beds. Hospitalero on duty to collect €3 charge. Very clean and comfortable and about 50 metres beyond the bar. Has hot water, showers and washing facilities. No food provided but cold meals - bocadillos, salads, plates of smoked meats etc. available back at the bar.
Sr. Jaime at the bar offers the following suggestion: as the next section to Melide is some 30 km, check in at the albergue and drop backpacks there, then continue walking some 7 km further to the Roman Bridge at Ferreira. Once there call a number that Jaime will give you and a driver will come up from Palas de Rei to take you back to Retorta. He will also pick you up in the morning and return you to Ferreira so that you can continue your journey (charge in 2008, €15 per trip).


Page 53. Mosteiro (Ferreira)
Casa de Ponte, breakfasts available (not coffee only) to those who have stayed at San Roman.  Just knock (or call ahead the night before to be sure, tel. number in guidebook). Does not normally open before 1630 hrs, owners not resident.
Page 56. Road section to Melide
Bar at Parrillada, (Approximately 5k from Melide) pilgrim friendly and welcoming.


Eric Walker 15/11/2009