CSJ Guide to the Camino Portugués: 2006 update

We include this message as we received it:

"Hello Webmaster,

I'm writing this e-mail to inform you about our webpage www.alberguerates.com.sapo.pt that contains some information for your pilgrims that come to do the Caminho Portugués.

Our Albergue was the first of Portugal, opened at 25 of July 2004 (St. James day). After that, in 2005, Valenca opened a new one. Now Barcelos and, maybe this summer, Rubiaes - Paredes de Coura. In Porto and Ponte de Lima (as well in all Youth Hostels of Portugal) you can stay and have a discount by showing the pilgrim credential.

Sorry my bad english...need some practice.

Ultreia

Best regards,

Nuno Ribeiro
Director
Albergue de Peregrinos S. Pedro de Rates [mailto:albergue-rates*iol.pt]" [To reduce the risk of spam, we're removing direct e-mail links from this site. To use this address, copy it into your normal e-mail program, but replace the '*' with the conventional '@', before sending your message.]

And this one, received 13 July 2006:

"Just to pass on word about the Camino Portugues – I walked from Porto to Santiago in early June 2006 with a group of university students.

We stayed in the albergue at Rates, and it is excellent.   There is a small shop only about 100 steps from the albergue and there is a pub on the town square which served excellent plain meals.

There is no albergue or pilgrim accommodation in Barcelos, but we managed to get accommodation in a pension on the main square called “Arantes”.  

There is a brand new albergue in Rubiaes, which is on the camino and therefore, very easy to find.   The first of our group was just the 40th person to stay here.   There is a fine, simple restaurant just about 10 minutes walk down the road and about another 10 mins will bring you to a small food store.

On the Spanish side, the albergue at Tui does not open until 5 p.m. which is a nuisance.   There is no albergue at Caldas de Reis, but there is an excellent one just 5km short of Caldas in a small town called Briallos.   Unfortunately, the kitchen has no equipment, and there is no restaurant nearer than Caldas.   Even the little shop is poorly equipped."

For cyclists - message received 29 August 2006:

I flew to La Coruna with Iberia as they had a promo fare of £35 and intended taking the bikes by ALSA bus to Porto the following day - about a three hour trip, one am departure and one very late evening departure 11pm or so.

Usually ALSA accept bikes in the hold unboxed etc. That has always been my experience. But we were told that "on cross border international services our bikes must be boxed."

There is no informatio to this effect on the ALSA website.

We offerred to put them in plastic bags but that wasn't acceptable. The clerk suggested we try the late bus and see if it would take the bikes. This was too uncertain so we quickly made for the train station, got a cheaper ticket to Porto and spent from 3pm to 10pm on a train via Vigo to Porto! (There was a layover at Vigo, the train station has more facilities than Redondela which you will pass through again on the way to Porto).

Second point - the train arrives in Porto Campo/Campanya which as its name suggests is outside the city. Change platforms for the town centre taking the metro in. There are lifts for the bikes, just wheel them on to the metro and the ticket collecter will inspect your train ticket and issue a second one for the bikes one euro each. I recall it was two stops to the centre.

Updated accommodation list for "Camino Portuguese" by Rob Steele, September 2007

Porto

There would appear to be a lack of good budget type accommodation in Porto, but after extensive web- searching I found the Andarilho Hostel. Centrally-located and with good metro links (direct metro from the airport to within an easy stroll of the hostel) this made a very good choice,

Beds from €18 in 6/ 8/10 person dormitories, bed linen and towels provided in the price. Good showers and toilets and lockers for your more valuable items (key from reception for a small deposit).

No curfew

Directions, Information and Booking through the web at http://www.andarilhohostel.com/public_html/index.php?lng

 

Vilar Do Pinheiro

We stayed at "Residencial Santa Marinha". This proved to be a very good choice as the friendly lady of the house did all our washing for us without extra charge.

Nice twin bedded en-suite rooms (plus 1 4-bed room) and a very good breakfast at a very reasonable €15 per person.

It might be worthwhile booking in advance during busy periods: telephone 22 027 1520

"Residencial Santa Marinha" is above a restaurant (separately managed) and there is a second restaurant about 50m back down the road towards Porto.

 

Rates

The albergue at Rates is excellent, situated on the left side of the route as it leaves the town centre.

This was the first official albergue on the Portuguese side of the Camino Portuguese, opening in 2004.

It has three dormitories, great showers with ample hot water and good clean toilets and also a well equipped kitchen and nice lounge. There is a garden and small museum to the rear.

The key is available from the shop on the right hand side if the road just past the albergue.

Donations requested.

There are several eating places open in the evening including a fast food outlet.

 

Barcelos

We had a few problems finding accommodation in Barcelos. Most of the places mentioned in our guidebook were either full or closed so we went to the tourist information office and they told us about the "Hotel Residencial Dom Nuno". This turned out to be an excellent choice too, nice en-suite rooms with balcony, substantial breakfast included in the price of €45 per room.

Again it might be worthwhile booking in advance during busy periods: telephone 351 253 812810.

Directions and details on their web-site at

http://www.residencial-dnuno.com/index.html

 

Ponte De Lima

"Hotel Imperio Do Minho" (this is the first hotel that you come to when walking into the town) is more expensive than one might normally expect to pay when Camino walking at €55 per room for two sharing or €40 for a single, but this does include a substantial pilgrim discount.

Prices include a substantial breakfast and there is a swimming pool.

Again it might be worthwhile booking in advance during busy periods: telephone 258 741 510/1/2.

Directions and details on their web-site at

http://www.hotelimperiodominho.pt/eng_index.phpSao

 

Sao Roque (Rubiaes)

There is now a new albergue at Rubiaes. It only opened last year (2006) and is right on the route just less than 1k on from the Pensao in Sao Roque.

Two large dormitories, nice lounge, large sitting out area and a small kitchen.

The key is available from the bar 1/2k down the road (don't take the next left yellow arrow once on the road but carry straight on and the bar is in front of you on the right hand side. You will also have to return the key the next morning).

Donations requested.

There are two restaurants within a kilometre or so and they seem to take turns in opening in the evening. There is also a small bar with a shop in it's rear next to Puns Romano, again about 1km from the albergue.

 

Tui

You have now crossed the border into Spain (don't forget to put your watch on by one hour) and Tui has the first Spanish albergue.

Located just below the Cathedral (slightly off route, go to the left of the cathedral, passed the police station and the albergue is on the right side of the street.

It doesn't open until 5 and sometimes even then you will have to phone the hospitalero to come and open up.

Two dormitories (but one was locked when I was there). Good showers and toilets and a small slightly overgrown sitting out area/drying clothes area to the rear. The kitchen was also locked when I stayed there.

Donations requested.

Plenty of opportunities for eating but don't forget the 10pm curfew.

 

Porrino

New purpose built albergue. To reach it turn left at the five lamps roundabout, cross the rail tracks and the Rio Louro and the albergue is between the river bank at the motorway to Vigo

 

Cabaleiros

Brand new albergue here. If you are flagging or want to split your 32k day then this looks the ideal place to do it.

Bar right opposite so no problems with food and a sun-downer

 

Redondela

Another nice albergue right in the centre of town. Two large dormitories, good showers and toilets, limited drying facilities. Again it doesn't open until 5pm so there is often a queue outside. However, when we got there it was already half full as we found out that it also opens from around midday until 2pm, then the front door is locked)

Very small but fairly well equipped kitchen.

Donations requested.

Plenty of opportunities for eating but again, don't forget the 10pm curfew.

 

Pontevedra

Very nice modern purpose built albergue 1.5km before the centre of town. The guidebook says that it doesn't open until 5pm but it was certainly open when we got there around 4.30 and looked as though it had been open for a while as it was ¾ full when we arrived.

One very large dormitory and also one smaller. Very well equipped laundry with coin operated machines, very well equipped kitchen. Excellent showers and toilets and a large sitting/dining area as well as ample room to sit outside. Vending machine with snacks, drinks and beer.

Donations requested.

Plenty of opportunities for eating but again, don't forget the 10pm curfew.

 

New albergue after Fuente San Mauro

Approximately 1.5km after the bar in Fuente San Mauro (or approximately 12km after Pontevedra).

 

Caldas de Reis

4km before Caldas de Reis at a small place called Briallos: a brand new purpose built albuerge, down a nice country lane 1/2km outside the small village.

Two dormitories, good showers and toilets, well equipped kitchen/dining room and really nice sitting out area. Small shop (but no bar) in the village.

Donations requested.

 

Padron

Very nice albergue located just below the Convento de Carmen (cross the bridge to get to it). One large spacious dormitory upstairs, good toilet/showers and well equipped kitchen/dining room downstairs. Small sitting out/clothes drying area to the rear.

Donations requested.

Plenty of opportunities for eating but again, don't forget the 10pm curfew.

 

Teo

We passed the signpost for the albergue at Teo but didn't actually go up to it as it is slightly off the route so again I don't have any details but if you were wanting to split your route differently or if you wanted to arrive in Santiago de Compostela in the morning then this might well be a good option as it's only 12k away.