CSJ Pilgrim Guides to Spain #4, Los Caminos del Norte:
B, The Tunnel Route - Updates to the 2002 edition

From Tony Roberts, 2005:

Page 28.  The section describing the approach to the tunnel should now read as follows:

Ermita de Santi Espiritu           7.0km
A former ermita-hospital run by the Templars.

From the fence immediately ahead of you, you can see down in the dip to your left, a cafe/bar/albergue, which provides a 'sello' and accommodation (but ring first if you require accommodation). The building itself was originally a Police Station of the Mikaletes, the Gipuzkoan Provincial Police. As you cross the fence line, ignore the yellow arrows going to the right along the fence and proceed straight ahead along a clear path to

St. Adrian’s Tunnel           0.5km

From Rob Steele, June 2007:

Updates for The Tunnel Route Part One -- Accommodation List p. 8

Accommodation in Irun

Excellent New Refugio de Perigrino at Calle Lucas de Berroa 18, Irun.

This refugio is run by a very helpful chap who is happy to provide good information on how to get to the starting point of the route and where to get good inexpensive food in Irun. There are 21 beds and a kitchen. Breakfast is provided. Donations.

 

New bar just before Frantzesillaga

There is a new restaurant/bar about 1.5k before you reach Frantzesillaga. It was open when we went past in the early afternoon, but we kept going to the one mentioned in the guide which is actually in Frantzesillaga.

 

Accommodation in Hernani

Pension Txoko – 943557557 / 608770602

This pension is located on the road from Hernani Railway Station to the Town Centre.

If you want to stay here then I would suggest, as it is an un-staffed pension, that you ring from the railway station and arrange for the manager to meet you there. Pension Txoko is on the left hand side of the road as you walk towards the town centre, it is unmarked but next to a building called Serviscos Municapales Vdal Zebitzvak.

Single rooms, tow rooms sharing one bathroom are €15 per night.

 

Reported to be no accommodation available in Alegia (I asked in the bar there) 

 

Accommodation in Legorreta

In Legorreta there was only one option of accommodation listed so we were relieved to see that it was open when we arrived. Actually it was closed for the fiesta but we just rang the bell and the lady of the house answered and the was no problem about accommodating two peregrinos.
The restaurant was closed however so we had to again make do with pinchos at the local bar but there was plenty of them and we were made to feel very welcome in this town.
Hostal Eizmendi is said to be on the National Highway as it passes through Legorreta, but we were relieved to see that the town has now been by-passed, so the location was good, the rooms were slightly old-fashioned but the beds were comfortable and the water was hot and at €30 a night for an en-suite room the price was fair.

 

Accommodation in Segura

By far the nicest accommodation we had on the whole trip was in Segura. We had originally intended to stay at the albergue that was listed in your guidebook, but on arrival in Segura we discovered that it was actually situated in the next village (Zerain) and that was 2k of route (4k return) and as we had a long enough day programmed in for the next day thought that it was just too far away !!
So the tourist office recommended us “Ondarre Nekazal Torismoa”, we initially thought that it was going to be way above our budget as the lady in the tourist office said she thought it was about 20 euro per person per night, however when she rang up to check for us, the lady at “Ondarre Nekazal Torismoa” said that as we were Perigrino’s she would offer us a discount and we ended up with a beautiful en-suite room for 24 euros.
The “Ondarre Nekazal Torismoa” is an old style Spanish farmhouse. The farm is still a working one, the rooms are of an exceptionally high quality and ours overlooked Segura. There was a massive en-suite bathroom. Also there was a kitchen upstairs that we could use if we wanted to, we actually went out for a delightful meal in Segura so didn’t, however it was there if we had wanted it.
The lady of the house was very friendly and I can give at “Ondarre Nekazal Torismoa” the very best of recommendations

Phone: 943801664 / 943800326
email - andarre@hispavista.com

 

Bar in Zalduondo

When we walked through, mid afternoon, there were people in this bar but when I went inside they said it was closed. Definitely not a peregrino friendly place.

 

Accommodation in Salvatierra

As we were a bit on the tired side when we walked into Salvatierra and found the only pension on Calle Mayor to be closed, we tried to locate the tourist office and we were told that this also was closed. But the good news was that we were told that there were habitaciones available above a local restaurant. This is actually the first  restaurant on the right hand side of Calle Mayor as you approach the town on the route and we had walked passed it but missed the Habitaciones sign.
The room was fairly basic with outside bathroom but was clean and we didn’t even have to leave the building for dinner. The price of 30 euro was a bit steep but the food in the restaurant underneath was excellent.

Accommodation in Estibaliz

The most interesting place that we stayed during this Camino was “Santuario de Ntra de Estibaliz”.
This is a monastery administered by “The Order of San Benito” and it offers peregrino’s free accommodation and food.
You will be made welcomed by the monks here, the accommodation is in the guest wing of the monastery, the rooms are simple, the beds comfortable. There is an evening meal provided after Mass and an early simple breakfast before you set off in the morning.
There isn’t a facility to leave a donation but there is a small gift shop attached to the monastery, so you can either buy a small gift here or leave a donation in the donations box in the attached church.

 

Accommodation in La Puebla de Aranzon

When we arrived at La Puebla de Aranzon we were pleased to see that the new motorway had now by-passed the town and the old N-1 that used to be very busy according to your guidebook was now almost a ghost road.
As you follow the route down the old N-1 into the villaghe you go under a now unnecessary foot bridge and to the left of this is a pension.
We thought that it was a bit over-priced as they were asking for 40 euro for a room with outside bathroom, after a bit of a discussion they offered us a small discount for peregrinos, so the room then worked out at €36, I still thought that this was a lot but it was the best deal we could find here, so we had no other choice but to accept. The guy had phoned the Hotel and they were charging more.

The room was OK and the water in the bathroom was hot and there was a handy restaurant right next door so things could have been a lot worse.

 

Accommodation in Brinas

El Portal de la Rioja” in Brinas was by far the most peregrino friendly place that we stayed at during the entire trip.
However it isn’t situated in the same place as the guidebook tells you. When the route brings you into Brinas close to the church, you need to turn right and walk about 1km, you actually leave the town and “El Portal de la Rioja” is located just by the new bypass.
The people running this place are amazing. They offer a huge discount for peregrinos and a large comfortable twin bedded en-suite room only cost €26.
The food served in the restaurant downstairs was the best of the trip, 3 courses with an excellent bottle of Rioja came to €8.40 per person.

When I went to settle the bill in the morning a lens came out of my glasses. The lens was held in by a tiny screw, and although the place was very busy they still found time to repair them for me.


 

Updates for The Tunnel Route Part Two --The Route

Page 13 Gurrutze

There is actually two bars here now (both closed mid morning when we passed through). Going up the hill into Gurrutze you turn left in front of the 1st one then there is a new sign-posted route that turns right almost immediately after it. You now walk down the hill on a minor road which turns into a track and swings left and climbs a little, then after a short while you join another surfaced minor road (this is the original route as described in the guide-book) and turn right onto it.

 

Page 15

There is now a new bar/restaurant about 1.5km before reaching Frantzesillaga.

 

Pages 19 to 22

There are several new paths that keep you away from the busier stretches of road on this section but they are all well way-marked

 

Page 25 Segura

The Tourist office here is very helpful. They will ring up and find out where there is accommodation available, they rang a place called “Ondarre Nekazal Torismoa” for us and when the lady that runs the place found out that we were peregrinos she offered a substantial discount.

Sello also available here

 

Page 27

After Zegama, when you leave the main road on the minor road signposted Iruetxata, after following this road for less than a kilometre the road splits, you need to take the left hand fork, This is in fact a dog-leg left, there is a yellow arrow on a tree but you don’t see it until you actually make the left turn

 

Page 28

When the surfaced road ends at Caserio Buenavista (you can’t argue with the name of this house) take the left turn but do not go through the gate as told to in the guide-book, instead immediately after passing the side of the house turn sharp right up a track with high hedges on both sides. There is no sign-posting here but soon afterwards you pick up good new signing that will keep you on the right track all the way to Saint Adrian’s Tunnel and beyond

 

Page 29 Zalduondo

As you enter the village there is a very useful fuente and another as you leave the village, but don’t rely on the bar as although there were people in it when we passed through, mid afternoon, they said that it was closed.

 

Page 32

After Eskerekotxa – “The track gradually drops until you reach an unguarded level crossing where you turn right”

This is now a new bridge that crosses the railway line. We wrongly assumed that we were supposed to cross this new bridge, then turn right. We did this and didn’t fully realise our mistake until we were approaching Alegria which was meant to be 1,5km off the route. So we went to the Ayuntamiento here, The staff were very helpful and gave us a sello as well as a map to show us the way back on the route at Ermita de Nuestro Senora de Ayala.

The official route does not cross this bridge and you should keep the rail-tracks to your left and not cross them unless you want to visit Alegria

 

Page 33

I would highly recommend any peregrino to stay at “Santuario de Ntra Señors de Estibaliz”

Full description on accommodation updates

 

Page 37

The approach to Vitoria is now a very difficult stretch to navigate your way through.

Once you reach the crest of the hill after Arcaya, you will see beneath you a massive building site. The track that you are on ends where it has been bull-dozed away and blocked off with notices saying Not to Enter.

As we could see no alternative we decided to enter and make our way across this building site, we asked some workmen if we were heading in the right direction at one point and they said “Yes” and didn’t make any comment about us ignoring the keep out signs, so I assume from this attitude that we were not the first peregrinos to go that way. However it is still far from easy to pick out the “way”. Eventually we came to the railway line where a foot bride crossed it, we asked for more directions here and were told not to cross the foot bridge but to go down a path to the left (keeping the rail tracks on our right). Soon this became a pavement, then it lead onto a road, here we were told to take the 1st left and go down to the end of the street and turn right at the T junction, we did that and found ourselves back on the official route as we soon came to a roundabout and Calle Florida lead off that. So from there it was easy to follow the route avoiding the city centre to Armentia.

 

Page 38 Armentia.

We couldn’t find a shop here but did find the 1st yellow arrow as mentioned in the guide book. But after “going up the steps to the open area” you will be confronted by another building site. However this one hasn’t as yet really got going and it was fairly easy to navigate our way through it and onto the track which runs parallel to the N-1. However it might become a problem as time goes on.

 

Page 39 The Hill Route after Subijana

This route is now very well way-marked

 

Page 40 After Villanueva de la Oca

You now go under the new motorway on a minor road which takes you through an underpass. Continue on this minor road until it joins the old N-1 and turn left and walk the remaining 1/2 km into La Puebla de Aranzon. This is no longer the busy road mentioned in the guide book as now nearly all the traffic is on the new motorway.

 

Page 41

On leaving La Puebla de Aranzon, after negotiating crossing the railway line you come onto the old N-1 close to the filling station mentioned in the guide book. However there is now a new roundabout in front of it, so at this roundabout you need to go left (towards the new motorway and under the new underpass) and not up the slip road as mentioned in the guidebook.

Once you are under this new motorway underpass you are back on the route as described in the guidebook.

 

Burgueta

You can now get a sello from the peregrino friendly community centre opposite the church.

 

Page 44 Salinillas de Buradon

Excellent and very welcome fuente next to the east gate

 

Entering Brinas, the route doesn’t bring you into Brinas as described in the guide book. If you aren’t staying at “El Portal de la Rioja” then just cross the road and head down the small hill to the church. However if you are wanting to stay at El Portal de la Rioja you need to turn right and walk about 1km, you actually leave the town and “El Portal de la Rioja” is located just by the new bypass

 

Page 45 After Haro

Crossing the N-232 (Pancorbo to Haro / Logrono road)

As you approach this road, look to your right and you will see that there has now been a new footbridge built so that peregrinos can cross this busy road safely

 

After Zarraton

Take care when passing the farmhouse known as Madrid, there are wild un-tethered dogs here.

 

Page 46

On the approach to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, after crossing the bypass the route has now been changed. You now turn left on what looks like an old rail-bed. There are new yellow arrows pointing you this way on a white electricity pylon tower. This route takes you passed the bullring and joins the Camino Francés on the main road that eventually leads you directly past both of the refugios and into Plaza Mayor and the Cathedral.