Pilgrim Guides to Spain #2: The Camino Mozárabe or Via de la Plata, A: Seville to Santiago, 2005 ed. -
June 2007 and later updates
| Note: facilities are only referred to if they have changed since the edition was published in March 2005. Otherwise consult the guide itself. (Amendments from the update sheet prepared in February 2006 have been incorporated here where the infomation still applies.) |
From John Curtin, June 2010 - specifically for cyclists
There's no guidebook with all the information a cyclist might need but here are some resources:
Join Santiago Bicicleta Yahoo group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Santiago_Bicicleta (free) and look at the files there under Via de la Plata, also info on bike hire companies (Tour n Ride is a company that recieves favourable comments).
Also it is well worth reading an illustrated account of the ride at www.interam.com/viaplata/indexeng.htm
And of course check out www.mundicamino.com for stages, elevation profiles and a bunch more info (and companies advertising rentals etc)
From Martin Davis, rec'd May 2010:
A new albergue has opened at Torremejia, in the Palacio de los Megia, next to the church. Initial reports are good, but it is an albergue turistico - not an albergue de peregrinos, though they do take pilgrims - when there are enough to warrant (economically) opening it. If you want to stay there "out of season" - like the one in Zafra, Baños de Montemayor and others - they are firmly shut because "there aren't enough pilgrims."
From Alson Raju, February 2009:
A new guide book has been published by the Seville "Amigos" for the route from Cádiz to Seville, for those who want to start down there. Send a €10 note to Amigos Camino Santiago, c/ San Jacinto 25, Sevilla 41010, España. (Their website is http://www.viaplata.org/ )
Thanks to Peter Robins for the following message, received 20 March 2008: If you've not already heard, there's a new Asociacion de Albergues de la Via de la Plata, which aims to help pilgrims on the Seville-Astorga route by publicising accommodation, improving the provision, and generally helping to improve/publicise the route. Their website is at http://alberguesperegrinos.com/ though it's not too informative as yet. |
Update June 2007:
p. 9 Web sites www.mundicamino.com and www.via-de-la-plata.de are also useful.
p. 9 Amigos office in Seville Their office in Calle San Jacinto 25 is now reported open Mon, Wed, Fri (not Tues and Fri). Email address without the .es
p. 18 Seville Hostal Monreal, Calle Rodrigo Caro 8 (in the Barrio de Santa Cruz), tel: 95.42.41.66, dbl. 40€, single €20, reported good.
Seville: the Church San Nicolas: inside, on a side altar: a statue of Santiago Peregrino (rec'd 12 May 2008)
Italica: indeed free entry for European citizens. You can leave your rucksack in a little building at the
gate. The site is much of a ruin. There are some beautiful mosaics.
The Roman theatre is about 750 m away, in the village (rec'd 12 May 2008).
p. 18 Santiponce The Hotel Ventorillo Canario, Avenida de Estremadura 13 (95.599.67.04, 55€ dble, opposite entrance to Italica) is now the “Hotel Anfiteatro Romano,” although it’s restaurant has not changed it’s name. Casa Rural (Señora Carmen) reported in Calle Manuel González Rodríguez, 14€.
p. 18 Guillena Key for R&F now also at bar next door.
Guillena: Hotel Frances has become a bit shabby: they ask €20 for a (very small) single room, no windows, no water (rec'd 12 May 2008). Hostal/Bar Francés only does bocadillos/cold food - nearby Rte Casa de Puebla does hot meals, v busy (rec'd July 2008).
P. 19 Burgillos (slightly off route between Guillena and Castilblanco): Casa Paco has rooms (36€ dble, incl. bfst, other meals avail).
p. 19 Castilblanco de los Arroyos Refugio now has 24 beds but is spartan. Just before entering the town on your left hand is a new meson (rec'd 12 May 2008). Hotel Castillo Blanco, tel 955 734523, only offer pizzas but nearby Meson La Colina provide good Spanish food (rec'd July 2008).
p. 19 The route through the Cortijo Arroyo Mateos is now reported to go through the estate for only 3kms. After that you continue on the road. However, a cycling pilgriom reported on 26th May 2008:
"Last Saturday I returned from a trip from Cadiz to Santiago by bike, and can report that the passage through the Cortijo Arroyo Mateos estate is open again. I was suprised but a Spanish couple informed me that the Spanish governement has taken action to open up this (and perhaps more) passages through private estates. All dogs are chained so no problems! And I can tell that the passage through the Cortijo Arroyo Mateos is spectacularly beautiful, also because there you can see the black pigs which are not receiving extra food and depend on what they find in the very big dehesas!"
Almaden de la Plata: the Casa (pension) section of Bar Casa Concha is completely new: nice rooms with bathroom etc. single: €20- friendly place (rec'd 12 May 2008).
p. 20 El Real de la Jara now has brand-new refugio (12 beds): turn off the main road though the town at the Caja Rural and then1st L up black tar road to end (but you need to get key first - and pay - at TO in town’s main square). Rooms still avail. at Casa Concha, Calle Real 70 (which now has a sign “Alojamiento Molina” above the door).
El Real de la Jara: the refugio is not the same as the unmarked pension at no. 70. Both exist. The refugio is the sleeping place as you describe: at the campo de futbol. Opposite the church at the square is a nice restaurant (rec'd 12 May 2008). Alojamiento Molino tel 954 733053 - Hostal La Encina tel 954 733189, @24 room, end of village on industrial estate (rec'd July 2008).
p. 20 Monesterio Refugio at the Cruz Roja (at entrance to town on LH side of road) reported closed for renovation in May 2007.
Monasterio: a cheap sleeping place: Hostal Extramadura: tel 606565537/924516502. and at the end of the town a nice new pension: Hostal Leo (also very early open for a breakfast) (rec'd 12 May 2008). Hotel Moya tel 924 516136, friendly (rec'd July 2008). Hostal Rinconcillo €15 with breakfast reported much better than Hostal Extremadura in June 2009.
Monesterio de Tentudia - found excellent bar there offering good food (rec'd July 2008).
Los Santos de Maimona - signposting through this village not good (rec'd July 2008).
p. 22 Fuente de Cantos Albergue (which has consistently good reports) now has free internet access.
Fuente de Cantos: Albergue de Turismo: indeed a very nice place. But the breakfast is not filling anymore and a evening meal is not available. To get there: before you enter the village follow the main road to the left at the outskirt of the village. Soon you’ll see the convent at the right before you (rec'd 12 May 2008).
p. 22 Puebla de Sancho Pérez Albergue reported but not yet open. Hostal Monte on main road.
p. 22 Zafra now has an albergue turístico, on the camino on leaving town, in former priory of San Francisco where Calle San Francisco begins. 20 beds in 4 rooms, café/bar, restaurant, breakfast & eve. meals avail.
Zafra: the refugio is closed. No albergue turismo. At the Calle Ancha is a cheap hostal (rec'd 12 May 2008).
Villafranca de los Barros: The refugio is closed. Casa Perin is on the camino (rec'd 12 May 2008). Albergue Hostal Diana very good others reported poor (June 2009).
Villafranca de los Barros - Hotel Diana, Carrera Chica 29, tel 924 520502 - local Amigos del Camino de Santiago at 6 Daoiz y Velarde, as I was walking into the village one of the members in a car drew up beside me to welcome me and give me a plan of the village, very helpful - the first time it had ever happened to me, I went to their office to thank them. Mass 1930 hrs in Iglesia de Sta Maria (rec'd July 2008).
p. 24 Torremegía New albergue turístico reported in the old palace with shell on the door, Calle Grande, behind church. 24 beds, restaurant, bar, but only one shower reported. "Albergue is a death trap 22 people in one room" - June 2009. Hostal Millenium on main road (calle Extramedura 56, tel.: 924340207, €20 room, €8 meal) lovely despite appearance, reported good and cheap.
p. 24 Mérida New refugio in historic buiding in park beside river between Puente Lusitania and railway bridge (turn R at end of Roman bridge and walk c. 500m along river). 12 bunks, showers and washing facilities, 5€, key from kiosk nearby or ring 646.21.63.41
p. 24 Aljucén Refugio 9€, Casa Rural 26€; one bar in villlage does meals, the other opens 06.30hrs. June 2009: must visit the Roman Baths here; also fabulous mass with private benediction for pilgrims.
p. 26 El Chorillo 30 minutes walk before Alcüescar (i.e. between the Cruz del Niño Muerto and Alcuéscar) 2 CSJ members, Edward and Vivien Jones, provide self-catering accommodation at their farm, plus simpler facilities for pilgrims: Cuadras Marti Laguna, El Chorillo. This is on the camino itself but if you are intending to stay there it is suggested you telephone ahead to get clear instructions: 927.38.46.09 or 605.54.03.09.
p 26 Aldea del Cano Casa Rural “Vía de la Plata” in Plaza Mayor 8, tel: 666.43.14.20, good reports. Municipal refuge (in former school on LH side of main road at entrance) now reported in two parts, one basic, the other with better facilities. Key at municipal swimming pool (in village, to other side of road).
Aldea del Cano - good refugio, 4 bunk beds, mattresses, heater, washing machine ( not in school) - Casa Rural Via de la Plata opposite church, tel 666 431420, €25 room (rec'd July 2008).
p. 26 Cáceres Hostal Quazeres (near Plaza Mayor) reported cheap (15€ pp), friendly and very clean.
Valdesalor - after petrol station, necessary to cross autovia by bridge, arrow is marked. Ignore arrows that come to a halt where autovia now crosses the old camino route (rec'd July 2008).
p.28 Hostal del Miraltajo. This has now reopened, bought by a Dutch couple who have turned it into a hotel rural, now named the LindaMar ( 20€ pp. in double room). This is also reported to include a budget camping site with 20 tents with wooden floors, showers and toilets and mattresses for pilgrims. It is recommended that you ring ahead (tel: 927.19.20.04 or 658.56.84.10). Very good reports from pilgrims but Dutch owners say they are going to keep open for 2009 and 2010 from April to end of June only. After this they will look at their options as they run other busineses.
p. 28 Telephone no. for albergue turístico near reservoir and behind LindaMar (phone ahead) is 680. 63.15.43.
p. 28 Cañaveral Refugio continues to have negative reports.
p. 29 Galisteo New Hotel Medina Ghaliayah on main road (reported surprisingly inexpensive), tel: 927.45.22.87.
Galisteo - Bar/Rte Los Emigrantes, tel 927 452074 and 627 504692 (rec'd July 2008).
p. 30 Aldeanueva del Camino Refugio now reported to have more beds (12-15) and is now on 2 floors.
Carcaboso - Hostal Ciudad de Cáparra, excellent food and hospitality, modern, clean, €18 room, Pilgrim menu €9, very friendly young owner, Javier, highly recommendable - phoned Hostal Asturias in Jarilla to collect me from Cáparra next afternoon (rec'd July 2008, confirmed June 2009).
Caparra - From Hostal Asturias the owners can advise how you can rejoin the camino by following other waymarks. No need to retrace your steps.
p. 30 Baños de Montemayor Pensión Diego, Avenida de las Termas 69, 24€ with bath, 21€ without. Amazingly good Albergue for €12 with breakfast (June 2009).
p. 32 Calzada de Béjar New private refugio Alba Soroya now has more beds (25), plus some double and single rooms.Will prepare good food all day. Reported excellent June 2009.
p. 32 Fuenterroble de Salvatierra Casa Rural ‘”Paqui” at entrance to village, tel. 923.15.11.35 or 649.60.23.40. No meals but good kitchen.
p. 33 San Pedro de Rozados A private refugio, for pilgrims only, is run by Raúl and Núria in San Pedro de Rozados, a village on the Vía de la Plata some 30km south of Salamanca.
The Albergue El Milario is in Calle Rosario 17, has 10 beds (to be increased to 16 next year), hot water, heating, a fireplace in the living room and is open all year round. Access is via Elena in Bar Claveles.
Raúl and Níria also have a Casa Rural at the same address. Email: casamilario@hotmail.com Tel: 923.34.44.01, 600.89.89.09 & 600.75.84.87.
San Pedro de Rozados - Bar Moreno, good supper, Mari Carmen arranged for us to stay in the house of her kind parents - us was my youngest daughter and two of her children who had joined me for 3 days walking from Calzada de Bejar to Salamanca - Casa Rural is now open (rec'd July 2008).
p. 33 Morille Bar Segovia now reported opening earlier.
p. 35 El Cubo de Tierra del Vino Bar Santo Domingo (meals, rooms). Tel: 980. 577408. New albergue 14 beds, tel 670 8408602.
p. 35 Villanueva de Campeán Bar Vía de la Plata (Calle Calzada 19) does meals. [Is there now a 2nd refugio? Info. welcome.]
p. 35 Zamora Wonderful new albergue, 24 beds. tel 980 509 427. open from 4pm.
p. 36 Montamarta New municipal refugio on RH side of N630, 200-300m after Hostal/Rte Asturiano. 20 beds, hot showers, kitchen (reported not yet finished), donation. Key from ayuntamiento.
Montamarta - Bar/Rte El Asturiano closed - albergue outside village, clean and comfortable but beware road to access which goes under N630 which is also a stream and very slippery. Rte Zangarron on N630 - good meal (rec'd July 2008).
p. 36 Riego del Camino Refugio at Calle España 32, key from Dorita at #7.
p. 36 Granja de Moreruela Refugio now renovated, 12 beds, small but reported clean and with good showers. Another report says that the refugio is housed in the bar and is very very noisy especially at weekends.
Granja de Moreruela - Bar Peregrino closed - albergue and bar, do meals, friendly, at entrance to village - Casa Rural Tio Quico next to Church (rec'd July 2008).
Tabara - El Roble hospederia, rte, bar tel 980 590300, mob 650 629969 in centre of town off Plaza Mayor, special price for pilgrims €17, does good meals (rec'd July 2008). Also new (Oct 2008) and good municipal albergue.
p. 43 Santa Marta de Tera Key for refugio acommodation at Bar Stop.
Santa Marta de Tera - church closed for reconstruction works (rec'd July 2008).
p. 44 Calzadilla de la Tera New refugio at end of Calle Tras Las Casas at edge of town near sports field and panadaría, 6 beds, hot showers. Key from Calle Las Eras 9 (the Alcalde?).
p. 44 Rionegro del Puente New refugio now open in the former pilgrim hospital on RH side of main road, just past Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Carballada, run by the Cofradia de los Falifos, one of the oldest pilgrim cofradias still in operation. 24 beds, kitchen, showers, reported very good. 6€.. Key from bar opposite?
p. 45 Cernadilla Bar and shop reported.
p. 45 Puebla de Sanabria Refugio at ayuntamiento now reported closed but dormitory accom. + showers avail. for pilgrims nearby at Colegio Concertado, a school run by a community of nuns at Calle San Benardo 11, 6€ donation.
p. 45 Requejo de Sanabria Refuge accom. (20 beds, no kitchen) on first floor of house near ayuntamiento (next to farmacia)
Palacios de Sanabria - Hostal Navalon, tel 616567638, owner Teresa, rooms and meals, house still being constructed (rec'd July 2008).
p. 49 Campobecerros Bar/Rte Merendeiro does meals.
Lubian - Casa Rural La Pachaca, tel 980 624127, mob 689396663 modern, spotless, lady owner Conté, very kindly and helpful, meals, highly recommendable (rec'd July 2008). Irene has been closed for meals for a year.
Laza - Bar Picota, very friendly and good food (rec'd July 2008).
Xunqueira de Ambia - Casa Rural Do Souto, modern, comfortable, owner José Manuel, mob 669851544 (not 626089561), v friendly and helpful, showed us round the Colexiata de Sta Maria la Real - Rte Saborino very good food (rec'd July 2008).
Reguengos - Bar O'Caracocho, v friendly, bocadillos, 110 m left off Camino (rec'd July 2008).
p. 56 Cotelas Casa Rural “O Refugio,” rooms (reduced rates for pilgrims), meals. Tel: 988.28.25.93 or 606.70.91.67.
Cotelas - O Refugio, tel 988 282593, mob 606709167, bar, meals, rooms, shop, helpful lady (rec'd July 2008).
p. 56 Castro Dozón Hostal Castro Dozón (at swimming pool at end of village) now reported open again, with rooms (20€ dble).
p. 57 Botos de Abaixo Bar/Rte Estación has rooms.
p. 57 A Laxe Restaurant reported 100m from new albergue.
p. 57 Prado Bar O’Afilador now reported closed.
Lalin - Hostal Caracas, good rooms and meals, lady owner Pilar, very helpful, mob, tel 986 780436 680176205 (rec'd July 2008).
p. 57 Bandeira Bar opp. Hostal Portón has internet.
Bandeira - Hotel Victorino (not Vitorino) - speak English, very friendly and helpful, very reasonable (rec'd July 2008).
p. 58 Capilla de Santaguiño New refugio, 100m past chapel, 30 beds (plus 30 mattresses), kitchen, very good reports. Apparently not signed in advance. Restaurant reported nearby.
Lestedo - Casa de Casal, tel 981 503227, excellent rooms and meals, 100 m off Camino, make own excellent orujo! 12 km from Santiago (rec'd July 2008).
* * * * * * *
Alison RAJU June 2007, with thanks to John & Liz Aldridge, Ida Blok (Holland), Nicholas Burridge, Alistair Cardno & Linda Walsh, Karel Flos (Holland), Geneviève Dubois-Taine, Alan Howard, Maarten Lammers, Martin Hanzalek, Martin Horrell, Iain Hunter, John & Sandy Kent (South Africa),Annette and Charlie Machon, Ian Mackey, Tim McCoy, Kevin & Kari O’Brien (Norway), David Penberthy, Marga van Ree, Jock & Mrs. Richardson, Marit Runeman (Sweden), Ken Spittal, Rob Steele, Clive Tapsell and George Young for sending in comments and suggestions after their journeys since then.
General Pilgrims walking the route in 2006 and 2007 reported major road works in progress, particularly in the area around Monesterio but also in other parts of Extremadura. As a result yellow arrows have been obliterated in places so it is suggested that you do not rely solely on the CSJ guide but take a detailed route-finding guide with you as well.
Recent pilgrims also report that the route is now less solitary than hitherto.