Pilgrim Guides to Spain #2: The Camino Mozárabe or Via de la Plata, B: Granada to Mérida, 2005 ed. - February 2007 - July 2008 updates

General  Changes to the route have taken place since this guide was first published in April 2004 but apart from the description of the alternative to the fording of the Río Bórdalo (see pages 44 & 45 of the guide) the information given here concerns only accommodation and services.  Changes to the route itself will be dealt with in detail when a completely new edition comes out, hopefully for the beginning of 2008.

The Introduction to the guide (page 5, under “Accommodation”) indicates that there there is “probably no R&F (‘roof and floor’) facilities for individuals either.”  However, individual pilgrims have since reported being able to use such places (sports halls etc.).  Remember, however,  that some of these may also be shared by the itinerant homeless and that good Spanish will also be needed to access these facilities.

Pilgrims in 2006 have reported that the Lista de Correos service no longer keeps items for one month before returning them to the sender but only for 15 days.  If you are thinking of sending a parcel to yourself further along the route you are advised to check this out first.

Note that the route is still a solitary one and may not suit those who do not like extended periods of their own company.

Pilgrims wishing to join this route in Córdoba also have the option of starting their jouney in Málaga.  This section of the Camino has been waymarked by the Málaga association.  A list of albergues is available from them and work is underway to produce a CD with maps of the route. Most of this information is also available on this website: http://www.malaga.es/provincia/rutas/ficha.asp?pag=1  The website of the Association itself is http://www.malagajacobea.org/

Alternatively contact the association (they have meetings every Tuesday at 7.30pm) at Calle Fajardo 4, Libreria  Mapas y Compania, Centro Cultural José María Gutierrez Romero, Málaga..  e-mail: ajacobeamalaga*hotmail.com [To reduce the risk of spam, we're removing direct e-mail links from this site. To use this address, copy it into your normal e-mail program, but replace the '*' with the conventional '@', before sending your message.]

* * * * * * *
Route diversion after Medellín  As indicated above, the route has been re-waymarked after Medellín to avoid having to wade across the Río Bórdalo .  In July and August the water is low enough to do this and this option is both 7km shorter and much quieter than the road(side) alternative (now waymarked) via Santa Amalia.  At other times, however, you will need to follow the instructions given below.

Continue through Medellín as described in the guide but after turning L to cross the bridge over the Río Guadiana  (where the yellow arrows start again) do NOT continue to the end but fork L onto a stony track that veers L and then continues // on the EX206, which is now over to your R.  800m later you will reach a T-junction wih a tarmac road. 

In July & August you can turn L here (despite obliterated arrows) along the minor road marked “Yelbes 4”  and continue as described in the guide.

At other times, however, you should turn R at the T-junction and then immediately L to continue along the hard shoulder of the EX206.  Cross the Arroyo La Galapaguera and KSO for 4kms.

Due to the many irrigation channels in this area there are unfortunately no suitable alternatives to long stretches ot tarmac.

When you reach road KM82, opposite the white gates of a finca with no name on it, turn L onto a farm track, passing an old-style electricity transformer.  Cross a bridge over a stream/canal and turn R at junction on other side.  Return to the EX206 by a bridge 300m before its junction with the N430 but then KSO(L) at a bend on a section of the old road leading towards a petrol station (bar/rte) on the outskirts of

8km Santa Amalia (371/32)
Small town with shops, bars, rtes, banks (+CD) etc.  Hostal Trebole in town centre, Hostal Caribe on outskirts (near petrol station).

To visit the town: cross the N430 and KSO ahead up road to RH side of petrol station.  Retrace your steps afterwards to continue.

To continue without visiting the town: veer L when you each the N430 and continue along its hard shoulder.  When you see the fork marked “Torrefresnada” KSO(L) along it into the village.
Note, however, that a waymarked route has also been reported leading from Santa Amalia direct to Alcuéscar,  40km south of Cáceres.  If you take this option you would then miss out Mérida.  Info. welcome.

9km Torrefresnada (380/230)  Bar.
KSO ahead on road out of village and then on the vía de servicio (an earth track // to the motorway and used for droving animals).  Continue on it until you reach the outskirts of San Pedro de Mérida.  Continue on track to RH side of motorway, and KSO(R) at fork (handy seat under tree to L).  Continue uphill, passing cemetery, and enter village of

9km San Pedro de Mérida  (389/14)
Continue from here as described in the guide.

*  *  *  *  *  * *

p. 15 First paragraph to be replaced by: On the other side is a large expanse of industrial buildings to your L, and new buildings to the R. At the first roundabout (no yellow arrows) turn left into a long square. Follow it // to the fence of a new industrial area (at your L) for 1,5 to 2 km. until you see, at your R the supermercado.

5km Maracena. Replace the 3 first sentences by: KSO, up to a T junction, turn left cross the bridge over the Arroyo del Baranquillo and turn R into the LH bank of stream. KSO along it….

p. 16  Los Olivares  Hotel El Dueño no longer exists.

P. 17 Moclin Self catering apartment at entrance of village (50€ dbl) but not always open. In Tozar, 7 km from Moclin, Hostal rural Marcelo, C/ San José, 25, 958 417 695 or 636 946 538 or, in Puerto Lope, 5 km downhill on the 432, Hotel Escudo de Granada, Av. De Andalucia, 958 418 192. To go to Tozar, go to Fuente del Malalmuerzo and then turn R to reach Tozar on the hill; next day, retrace your stepsd up to the Fuente. To go to Puerto Lope, go out of the village but, after having walked for 200 m on the road, turn L to Puerto Lope. Next day, follow the 432 till the “cordel de las Gallina”s.

2km (not 3) Fuente de Malalmuerzo

Cordel de las Gallinas First sentence: 500m later turn totally right (not fork R)

p. 18 First paragraph, second line: Reach top of the little hill at your right. Second paragraph, second line: KM marker 398 (instead of 338)

p. 20  Ventas de Carrizal  2 supermarkets. Bar El Parke does also meals , La Posa del Fraile; restaurante on the 432

P 20 4th paragraph: This section is now well waymarked

P 21 Alcaudete Hostal Esparruada, 47, Av. Andalucia single 18€, doble 27€

P 22. Paragraph after “Read the next section carefully” and the 2 ½ lines of the next paragraph should be replaced by: The arrows lead you down this road; you pass under the new motorway and 1km after, you fork R down a pista de tierra (farm track) through olive groves, without track and with very few yellow arrows on some trees. Be careful: after 2 ruins, go KSO gently downhill up to a little camino, which leads you to the Cortijo de la Paloma. Then return to the 432 in order to cross the Rio Guadajoz by the road bridge (at road km 352). … The Rio Guadakoz…

P 23Laguna de Salobral 3rd paragraph: Some 1.5 km later, without any yellow arrows ….
After the “factory on the right”,..
Continue for 1.5 km, cross the new 432, go KSO uphill, then down to stream, cross it and KSO ahead, steeply uphill and road, when the houses start….

P 24 To Continue: another option, I followed because it was very well waymarked, leads south of the 432. To follow it: R of the Hostal Rinçon (when going out of it), take the street for 1km, up to its end. Turn R in a track, down, then up; follow to the L a road, for 500m (very well waymarked), then left in a track, take the little bridge and go up to the road, for 10km. It leads you to the CP 147, to Fontana Guta. 500 m after, cross the road Izcar – Nueva Carteya, KSO in the track and ways in the olive groves. Up to the road CO 5203. Follow it for 500m and you arrive in Castro del Rio, in front of Pension Sacri.

P 25 4th paragraph: Turn R, pass Guardia Civil barracks, KSO with petrol station on your R, then KSO up gravel road. KSO up track, straight uphill….
Last line: 2.5km from bridge reach gravel road, crossing a tarmac road at right angles…

P 26. Second paragraph:Hostal la Galga, very pilgrim friendly…

P 29 4th paragraph: The whole area on the left is now built: KSO always, gently uphill.

P 30 Cerro Muriano At the end of the village, Bar – restaurante – Hostal El Colonel, very pilgrim friendly: 957 350 188 or 656 836 262

P 31 El Vacar Replace the paragraph by: KSO on track to LH side of N 432, sparsely waymarked. After 1.5km at a roundabout, KSO (don’t cross the 432), walk always with the 432 on your R, up to a little track that becomes an “old route”, down hill, uphill, up to the Cuesta de la Matanza.

Villaharta
 Hostal El Cruce, 400m to the left, when reaching the CO 426. Now closed, will open in 2009. Tel: 957 367 233. If you don’t find where to sleep, you may also go, with a bus, directly to Alcaracejos, for 2 nights, and take a bus the following morning to walk the beautiful section between Villaharta and Alacaracejos.

P 34 Junction near Puerto del Calatraveño. This section is very badly waymarked but you may follow the green vertical tubes with VP on them.
First paragraph, after… with a perimeter fence on your R… Don’t enter into the Cortijo Corromenos and KSO ahead, with the fence on your R.

Alcaracejos
Hostal Las Tres Jolas is closed, Bar Tic Tac on the main road has rooms.

P 39 Monterrubio de la Serena Second paragraph: Disco Oli-Bar… KSO for 5km, turn L in a track (written casa Rural). KSO gently for 5 km, fork R in front of a gate,.. KSO 300m until you reach the road, follow it for 1km. … Cross a minor road (marked Benquerencia to the right), KSO ahead on other side….

P 40 Second paragraph, add after “centro de desinfeccion de vehiculos “:
(here, a big panel explains the origins of the GR115, which signs will help all along the way; many yellow arrows too).

8 km (not 6 km), Former railway station at Quintana de la Serena
Station building no more an albergue
The first paragraph and the beginning of the second may be replaced by:
Pass to L of the old station, cross minor road coming from village of Quintana de la Serena over to your L and KSO ahead on track to LH side of the railway track, turning 2 times to your  R at T junctions of tracks (very well waymarked with yellow arrows and GR115 signs).
KSO for 6 km and pass over the railway line. … KSO uphill on the other side…

P 41 Campanario The railway station is now an albergue, rooms with 4 beds, restaurante, very friendly; Tel: 619 653 760. Even if the station is an albergue, trains to Merida – Badajoz and Madrid stop here (approx 2 times a day for Merida).  To go to the albergue, from the Ayuntamiento, go down the calle Benitez, cross the busy road, KSO for 800m; after the end of the houses, turn right in a little track through wine yards, you see the albergue in front of you. The following morning, to start, retrace your step for 500m, and take a white track to your L( yellow arrows)
 I would replace the text describing the section between Campanario and Magacela by this:
At the entrance of Campanario, turn R to the “Centro urbano”  up to the Ayuntamiento, go down the calle Benitez, cross the busy road, KSO for 1 km; just after the end of the houses, turn right (yellow arrow and GR115 sign) in a little white track through wine yards and some houses. KSO for 1 km, pass the train line, KSO again for 5 km up to the prehistoric site of La Mata, KSO for 2 km up to a road. Turn L in it, and follow it up to the outskirts of

P 42 Magacela End of the second paragraph: If the weather is nice, there is another option through the “camino over to the left”, which is very nice.
After the Calle Arroyo de la Fuente, you arrive to a road; KSO on it in direction of La Guarda (yellow arrows). At the new junction (no YELLOW ARROWS), KSO for 1 km then turn right in a track that leads you gently to theb EX 346 and then to La Haba.

La Haba
Option B, from La Haba to Don Benito, through fields and with yellow arrows:
Enter in the village, pass the church (RH) and KSO uphill to the matadero. KSO for 6 km up to Don Benito

Don Benito Hotel Miriam * and Hotel Miriam ** don’t exist anymore. It is very difficult to find a place to sleep in Don Benito: I didn’t find one and had to take a bus to go further. In the web site “camino Mozarabe”, it is written that it is possible to  find places in the “casa Virgen de las Cruces”, near the Parroquia Santa Maria, Tel: 924 805 248, but they don’t accept pilgrims. 

p. 47 Trujillanos  Bar Centro reported closed 2006.

* * * * * * *

Thanks to Mary and Bernie Roycroft (Canada) for sending in comments and suggestions after their journeys.